I drive an year old Nissan Rogue and recently had three recall (CVT Noise related software update, Steering Column Assembly repair, TPMS Nuts) .I have noticed a few issues recently with my Rogue and they weren't there before.
1. Excessive vibration in D or R Position
My car now vibrates excessively whenever I engage either the forward (D) or reverse (R) gear from stand-still position. Same thing happens when I stop in traffic and the gear is in D position with brakes applied .Generally the vibrations tend to build in twenty seconds within coming to a stop and vary in intensity though they can be felt clearly specially with warm engine.This happens mostly in evenings.They can also be felt on the Steering Wheel. However the vibrations subside when the car starts moving or when I increase the rpm to above 900 revs/min.
The idling rpm is about 750 revs/min. This is when the car vibrates badly on D or R gears.
I know there may be one or many reasons for this like
- Engine Mount
- Transmission Mounts
- Motor Mounts
- Torque Converter
- Strut Bearing / Front Suspension Assembly
- Axle
- Steering Column Assembly
- Intake Boots and hoses
- Crank Case Vent Valve
and so on but I can not pin-point as to what is causing this issue and need help.
I had a somewhat similar issue before ( at that time it was excessive vibrations on passenger side) and when dealership changed Strut Bearing for a suspension related issue it was resolved.
2. Air Conditioner Noise : In defrost mode or when I switch AC on in Cool mode I hear a noise that wasn't there before.This noise is similar to a compressor noise but wasn't there before or probably was too faint to hear. When I switch to Heat mode the noise disappears.
3. Jerk /Lurch Forward while coming to a stop in D position
I know every car lurches a bit while coming to a stop from a drive mode. Though I noticed that in my Rogue this jerk is a bit more intense now a days.
I have been to the dealership and they say its normal to which I do not agree since the issues did not exists a month ago.
Any thought? What could be wrong here ? Thanks
Issues with 2009 Rogue SL FWD after Recall Work?
if had three recall i think you need a new car.if not go to news media
Issues with 2009 Rogue SL FWD after Recall Work?
The vibrations and jerk/lurch symptoms could all be related to the vehicle
attempting to pull itself while the brakes are applied. The cause of it wanting
to pull will have to be determined with a Scan of the drive train system and
check for codes and history codes. There are some modifications that
require the ecu to relearn its parameters and requiring several restarts of the
engine and some road miles driven. The transmission will also require a scan
for codes and pids.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Issues with 2009 Nissan Rogue (One Year Old)?
I drive an year old Nissan Rogue and recently had three recall (CVT Noise related software update, Steering Column Assembly repair, TPMS Nuts) .I have noticed a few issues recently with my Rogue and they weren't there before.
1. Excessive vibration in D or R Position
My car now vibrates excessively whenever I engage either the forward (D) or reverse (R) gear from stand-still position. Same thing happens when I stop in traffic and the gear is in D position with brakes applied .Generally the vibrations tend to build in twenty seconds within coming to a stop and vary in intensity though they can be felt clearly specially with warm engine.This happens mostly in evenings.They can also be felt on the Steering Wheel. However the vibrations subside when the car starts moving or when I increase the rpm to above 900 revs/min.
The idling rpm is about 750 revs/min. This is when the car vibrates badly on D or R gears.
I know there may be one or many reasons for this like
- Engine Mount
- Transmission Mounts
- Motor Mounts
- Torque Converter
- Strut Bearing / Front Suspension Assembly
- Axle
- Steering Column Assembly
- Intake Boots and hoses
- Crank Case Vent Valve
and so on but I can not pin-point as to what is causing this issue and need help.
I had a somewhat similar issue before ( at that time it was excessive vibrations on passenger side) and when dealership changed Strut Bearing for a suspension related issue it was resolved.
2. Air Conditioner Noise : In defrost mode or when I switch AC on in Cool mode I hear a noise that wasn't there before.This noise is similar to a compressor noise but wasn't there before or probably was too faint to hear. When I switch to Heat mode the noise disappears.
3. Jerk /Lurch Forward while coming to a stop in D position
I know every car lurches a bit while coming to a stop from a drive mode. Though I noticed that in my Rogue this jerk is a bit more intense now a days.
I have been to the dealership and they say its normal to which I do not agree since the issues did not exists a month ago.
Any thought? What could be wrong here ? Thanks
Issues with 2009 Nissan Rogue (One Year Old)?
The recall was to address a rattle noise issue in the CVT gear box. Technician reprogramed the trans module TCM then engine control module ECM then cleared codes after that learned the idle speed IAVL. (idle air voloume relearn) Lurch forward when coming to a stop is a normal condition. Lurch is where the gear box comes off of coasting and back into lowest gear at slow speed just before the stop sign or traffic light. Vibrations most likely happen when the right hand motor mount has torn and that vibration is aggravated when the A/C compressor is turned on.. You may be listening to hard to your Rogue. 4 Cly engines vibrate more than 6 or 8 cyl motors.
Tire pressure monotor nuts, address a unlike metals corrosion issue.
Top steering rack hold down nut may have not been tightened properly that recall installs a lock plate after the rack nut is checked for tightness. Feel free to contact me off of this list jp.hudson@sbcglobal.net
1. Excessive vibration in D or R Position
My car now vibrates excessively whenever I engage either the forward (D) or reverse (R) gear from stand-still position. Same thing happens when I stop in traffic and the gear is in D position with brakes applied .Generally the vibrations tend to build in twenty seconds within coming to a stop and vary in intensity though they can be felt clearly specially with warm engine.This happens mostly in evenings.They can also be felt on the Steering Wheel. However the vibrations subside when the car starts moving or when I increase the rpm to above 900 revs/min.
The idling rpm is about 750 revs/min. This is when the car vibrates badly on D or R gears.
I know there may be one or many reasons for this like
- Engine Mount
- Transmission Mounts
- Motor Mounts
- Torque Converter
- Strut Bearing / Front Suspension Assembly
- Axle
- Steering Column Assembly
- Intake Boots and hoses
- Crank Case Vent Valve
and so on but I can not pin-point as to what is causing this issue and need help.
I had a somewhat similar issue before ( at that time it was excessive vibrations on passenger side) and when dealership changed Strut Bearing for a suspension related issue it was resolved.
2. Air Conditioner Noise : In defrost mode or when I switch AC on in Cool mode I hear a noise that wasn't there before.This noise is similar to a compressor noise but wasn't there before or probably was too faint to hear. When I switch to Heat mode the noise disappears.
3. Jerk /Lurch Forward while coming to a stop in D position
I know every car lurches a bit while coming to a stop from a drive mode. Though I noticed that in my Rogue this jerk is a bit more intense now a days.
I have been to the dealership and they say its normal to which I do not agree since the issues did not exists a month ago.
Any thought? What could be wrong here ? Thanks
Issues with 2009 Nissan Rogue (One Year Old)?
The recall was to address a rattle noise issue in the CVT gear box. Technician reprogramed the trans module TCM then engine control module ECM then cleared codes after that learned the idle speed IAVL. (idle air voloume relearn) Lurch forward when coming to a stop is a normal condition. Lurch is where the gear box comes off of coasting and back into lowest gear at slow speed just before the stop sign or traffic light. Vibrations most likely happen when the right hand motor mount has torn and that vibration is aggravated when the A/C compressor is turned on.. You may be listening to hard to your Rogue. 4 Cly engines vibrate more than 6 or 8 cyl motors.
Tire pressure monotor nuts, address a unlike metals corrosion issue.
Top steering rack hold down nut may have not been tightened properly that recall installs a lock plate after the rack nut is checked for tightness. Feel free to contact me off of this list jp.hudson@sbcglobal.net
What is the best way to prepare rusted bolts for loosening?
I plan on changing the struts in 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5S. I have never changed struts before. I expect the bolts to be on there tight and want to know what I should do to prepare the bolts for loosening. I live in NJ so I'm sure the winters have had their effect by now.
To give you an idea of my skill level. I have done brake jobs, steering rack replacement, and PS pump replacement in the past. I understand that heating the bolts with using a propane torch and spraying the threads with PB Blaster are two good ways to prepare bolts for loosening.
P.S. No wise cracks about getting air tools please. I don't have a need to use them often and for that reason don't want to spend the money on them.
What is the best way to prepare rusted bolts for loosening?
Start now dousing the threads with a good penetrating oil. Give them a healthy shot every day for a week and they should come loose without too much trouble. If they don't Sears, Harbor Freight and some Auto Parts Stores, sell a tool called a %26quot;nutcracker%26quot; or nutbuster that only costs a few bucks. It has an anvil opposed by a cutter on a bolt. Put it over the nut, tighten and it will split the nut so that it easily unscrews, no matter how rusty it is.
What is the best way to prepare rusted bolts for loosening?
i changed the struts on my oldsmobile and all i did was sprayed them with blaster and use a breaker bar. but before loosing the bolts mark around the old struts so you can put the new ones on the same way so it won,t be out of alignment. i sprayed black paint around the bolts before taking them out.
PB Blaster
can be bought at the parts store its is a white can with red/yellow/black writing on it and has a yellow cap. soak nuts and bolts with the spray wait 12-24hrs and respray. then proceed to remove nuts and bolts.
P.B. blaster.....ther isnt any substitute...at least none that i have found....i usually soak exhaust bolts in this overnight b4 i work on rusted exhaust.....
struts shdu b easier to break loose.....btw on that model do u have to use a spring compressor?...cas if so b very careful tehy r dangerous
PB Blaster then a few strikes on the HEAD of the bolt with a hammer, then loosen a lil, spray with lube, then tighten back a lil, few more strikes/taps with a hammer then it should be all over, hope this helps
Start squirting PB everyday for a week before hand, should loosen them up a bit. Works everytime for me.
try some good penetrating oil.
To give you an idea of my skill level. I have done brake jobs, steering rack replacement, and PS pump replacement in the past. I understand that heating the bolts with using a propane torch and spraying the threads with PB Blaster are two good ways to prepare bolts for loosening.
P.S. No wise cracks about getting air tools please. I don't have a need to use them often and for that reason don't want to spend the money on them.
What is the best way to prepare rusted bolts for loosening?
Start now dousing the threads with a good penetrating oil. Give them a healthy shot every day for a week and they should come loose without too much trouble. If they don't Sears, Harbor Freight and some Auto Parts Stores, sell a tool called a %26quot;nutcracker%26quot; or nutbuster that only costs a few bucks. It has an anvil opposed by a cutter on a bolt. Put it over the nut, tighten and it will split the nut so that it easily unscrews, no matter how rusty it is.
What is the best way to prepare rusted bolts for loosening?
i changed the struts on my oldsmobile and all i did was sprayed them with blaster and use a breaker bar. but before loosing the bolts mark around the old struts so you can put the new ones on the same way so it won,t be out of alignment. i sprayed black paint around the bolts before taking them out.
PB Blaster
can be bought at the parts store its is a white can with red/yellow/black writing on it and has a yellow cap. soak nuts and bolts with the spray wait 12-24hrs and respray. then proceed to remove nuts and bolts.
P.B. blaster.....ther isnt any substitute...at least none that i have found....i usually soak exhaust bolts in this overnight b4 i work on rusted exhaust.....
struts shdu b easier to break loose.....btw on that model do u have to use a spring compressor?...cas if so b very careful tehy r dangerous
PB Blaster then a few strikes on the HEAD of the bolt with a hammer, then loosen a lil, spray with lube, then tighten back a lil, few more strikes/taps with a hammer then it should be all over, hope this helps
Start squirting PB everyday for a week before hand, should loosen them up a bit. Works everytime for me.
try some good penetrating oil.
Shocks, Struts, What is the problem here?
I have a 2000 Lincoln LS. I had the struts changed a year ago. When i go over a bump it sounds like an someone jumping on an old rusty trampoline. it hits them pretty hard too, whats going on?
Shocks, Struts, What is the problem here?
strut mounts sound like they are worn
Shocks, Struts, What is the problem here?
Sounds like the springs...get under there and go to town with some WD-40
could be a bad coil spring, or even just the bushing.
Sounds to me as if you have a bad strut mount... Go back to your installer and ask or find out if the strut mounts had been replaced when the struts were serviced... It really is recommended to replace the mounts when the struts are done.
It could be numerous things. strut mounts ,spring mount. upper or lower control arm bushings,. sway bar bushings, control arm link bushings. Take to a shop and have them put it up on a rack to determine
It sounds like the struts are pretty new, If these struts are electronically controlled have those strut sensors tested.
Shocks, Struts, What is the problem here?
strut mounts sound like they are worn
Shocks, Struts, What is the problem here?
Sounds like the springs...get under there and go to town with some WD-40
could be a bad coil spring, or even just the bushing.
Sounds to me as if you have a bad strut mount... Go back to your installer and ask or find out if the strut mounts had been replaced when the struts were serviced... It really is recommended to replace the mounts when the struts are done.
It could be numerous things. strut mounts ,spring mount. upper or lower control arm bushings,. sway bar bushings, control arm link bushings. Take to a shop and have them put it up on a rack to determine
It sounds like the struts are pretty new, If these struts are electronically controlled have those strut sensors tested.
I changed the struts on my car with my dad, but now there's a klunking sound when I'm driving?
I can't think of what could have happened, we installed the struts step by step, and I was slightly concerned when my father told me it was the first time he did struts... Anyways, we installed them and the sounds are slightly annoying, but the struts seem to work perfectly otherwise. The tire wear has decreased majorly. My struts hadn't been changed in 225K. The reason we decided to change them was because I was driving on the interstate and my steering wheel started to shimmy and then my tire blew out. (It was an old Firestone tire) Dented my car pretty badly, damaged my bumper, and took off the sideview mirror. I've gotten a new sideview mirror since then. Anyhow, I was wondering why my struts make that klunking sound? (It's only when I'm driving through rough spots like bumps on the road, speed bumps)
I changed the struts on my car with my dad, but now there's a klunking sound when I'm driving?
the mounts on the top of the struts may be worn. did you put new struts or used ones? are they front struts or rear ones? did you have to disconnect your sway bar links to change the struts?/// if the car was not clunking before the tire blow out and the strut replecment there must be a worn part or a loose bolt not to undermind your dad,if he canged the front struts he's doing pretty good sometimes they can be a real pain in the a#$. i would get a complete front end inspection ball joints,tierod ends, control arm bushings,swaybar and links any of these things could give a clunk noise especilly on a old car with high miles. good luck!/// the three bolts on the top are the strut mounts.
I changed the struts on my car with my dad, but now there's a klunking sound when I'm driving?
a klunking noise,this sound is what sometimes metal to metal grinding or 2 pieces of metal coming together hard sound like.i would recommend that you take it to a front end specialist,due the car being in an accident,then if you feel that you could do the work then do it.sounds to me like it could be something different other than what you have already repaired,maybe a cvb(continuos velocity bearing) or somrthing in the front tranmission if front wheel drive
Check to make sure the end of the spring is seated in the strut base. next support the car on a stand and take a large bar under the tire and pry upward ageist the tire if you have movement there the top of the strut insulator should be changed.It is a possibility that the lower control arm bushings could be slightly worn.It does not take much wear in any one front end part to make a clunking noise
I have seen before where even new struts would be defective, where it would make a clunking sound, could be swaybar links or strut assembled wrong or bad strut.
Your car front suspension is a %26quot;McPhearson%26quot; strut assembly, to remove the %26quot;strut%26quot;/damper or the entire assy are two different tasks. The coil spring comes off for both tasks, if entire assy. was replaced then the %26quot;top%26quot; nut of the strut may be loose. Its important to have spring alignment (bottom of spring to strut assy base,and top of spring to strut top mount.) If align. is good , then a %26quot;impact /1/2%26quot; gun%26quot; with impact socket with %26quot;strong air pressure torque %26quot;should snug that puppy!
If you didn't install new top strut bearings, that is probably the problem. They are the plates that bolt the top of the strut assembly to the inner fender side apron. And, you'll probably have to remove the whole assembly, take it all apart, install the new bearings, and put it all back together again!
Although, i am speaking from experience with my Dodge Caravan struts. Yours may be different.
its not in your struts its in something else
Does your car make clunking noise when going around sharp corners or down hill while breaking? If it does you might want to look at the possibility of a bad cv joint.drawing a circle computer eye strain
I changed the struts on my car with my dad, but now there's a klunking sound when I'm driving?
the mounts on the top of the struts may be worn. did you put new struts or used ones? are they front struts or rear ones? did you have to disconnect your sway bar links to change the struts?/// if the car was not clunking before the tire blow out and the strut replecment there must be a worn part or a loose bolt not to undermind your dad,if he canged the front struts he's doing pretty good sometimes they can be a real pain in the a#$. i would get a complete front end inspection ball joints,tierod ends, control arm bushings,swaybar and links any of these things could give a clunk noise especilly on a old car with high miles. good luck!/// the three bolts on the top are the strut mounts.
I changed the struts on my car with my dad, but now there's a klunking sound when I'm driving?
a klunking noise,this sound is what sometimes metal to metal grinding or 2 pieces of metal coming together hard sound like.i would recommend that you take it to a front end specialist,due the car being in an accident,then if you feel that you could do the work then do it.sounds to me like it could be something different other than what you have already repaired,maybe a cvb(continuos velocity bearing) or somrthing in the front tranmission if front wheel drive
Check to make sure the end of the spring is seated in the strut base. next support the car on a stand and take a large bar under the tire and pry upward ageist the tire if you have movement there the top of the strut insulator should be changed.It is a possibility that the lower control arm bushings could be slightly worn.It does not take much wear in any one front end part to make a clunking noise
I have seen before where even new struts would be defective, where it would make a clunking sound, could be swaybar links or strut assembled wrong or bad strut.
Your car front suspension is a %26quot;McPhearson%26quot; strut assembly, to remove the %26quot;strut%26quot;/damper or the entire assy are two different tasks. The coil spring comes off for both tasks, if entire assy. was replaced then the %26quot;top%26quot; nut of the strut may be loose. Its important to have spring alignment (bottom of spring to strut assy base,and top of spring to strut top mount.) If align. is good , then a %26quot;impact /1/2%26quot; gun%26quot; with impact socket with %26quot;strong air pressure torque %26quot;should snug that puppy!
If you didn't install new top strut bearings, that is probably the problem. They are the plates that bolt the top of the strut assembly to the inner fender side apron. And, you'll probably have to remove the whole assembly, take it all apart, install the new bearings, and put it all back together again!
Although, i am speaking from experience with my Dodge Caravan struts. Yours may be different.
its not in your struts its in something else
Does your car make clunking noise when going around sharp corners or down hill while breaking? If it does you might want to look at the possibility of a bad cv joint.
I have a 98Neon and changing the rear struts. I am having a problem breaking loose 2 bolts on bottom at hub?
are they backwards threads or just real tight. I have broke 2 sockets trying to loosen them. any suggestions thanks for the help robert
I have a 98Neon and changing the rear struts. I am having a problem breaking loose 2 bolts on bottom at hub?
I don't have a 98Neon, but from experience with working on cars, they are likely just VERY tight.
I would go down to your local %26quot;Harbor Freight Tools%26quot; store and buy a 1/2%26quot; drive impact socket set and a very long 1/2%26quot; Breaker bar. I suggest this place because they are inexpensive, but it won't matter for these tools as they will be well suited for the job regardless of how much you spend.(I got mine there and they work great).
Make sure you get the appropriate sockets... Metric or standard,
deep well or shallow.
Then, you will have much more torque and the sockets will handle it.
Also, put some lubricant on them that is designed for penetrating such tough jobs and it should be a much easier job!
Good Luck!
I have a 98Neon and changing the rear struts. I am having a problem breaking loose 2 bolts on bottom at hub?
Are you sure they arent the lock nut
they are counterclock theads try an 6 point impact socket and a power bar,use a pipe over the bar for M.A.mecanical advantage.if needed.loosen the nut side first. If that fails you will need a torch.
keep the top of the strut bolted in in the strut tower so it doesn,t flop around on you while your removing the bolts.good luck
I have a 98Neon and changing the rear struts. I am having a problem breaking loose 2 bolts on bottom at hub?
I don't have a 98Neon, but from experience with working on cars, they are likely just VERY tight.
I would go down to your local %26quot;Harbor Freight Tools%26quot; store and buy a 1/2%26quot; drive impact socket set and a very long 1/2%26quot; Breaker bar. I suggest this place because they are inexpensive, but it won't matter for these tools as they will be well suited for the job regardless of how much you spend.(I got mine there and they work great).
Make sure you get the appropriate sockets... Metric or standard,
deep well or shallow.
Then, you will have much more torque and the sockets will handle it.
Also, put some lubricant on them that is designed for penetrating such tough jobs and it should be a much easier job!
Good Luck!
I have a 98Neon and changing the rear struts. I am having a problem breaking loose 2 bolts on bottom at hub?
Are you sure they arent the lock nut
they are counterclock theads try an 6 point impact socket and a power bar,use a pipe over the bar for M.A.mecanical advantage.if needed.loosen the nut side first. If that fails you will need a torch.
keep the top of the strut bolted in in the strut tower so it doesn,t flop around on you while your removing the bolts.good luck
Can you put grease plugs into a strut that doesnt have them?
i hasve a 2001 toyota tundra and have had to change front shocks (actually their struts) many times and was told that i could do this by a backyard mechanic, but would like to make certain before doing so. directions
Can you put grease plugs into a strut that doesnt have them?
u can put grease fittings in anything dont mean they will help but in your case probley. first you have to drill a hole tap it and insert fitting. but make sure you put the sert where it will benifit
Can you put grease plugs into a strut that doesnt have them?
DO NOT Drill a hole in a suspension strut.These are either oil or gas filled.
They do not require lubricant of any kind and drilling into it will seriously
damage it.If you are experiencing excessive wear then you may need to look
at some kind off heavy duty upgrade instead of the standard fitments.
Can you put grease plugs into a strut that doesnt have them?
u can put grease fittings in anything dont mean they will help but in your case probley. first you have to drill a hole tap it and insert fitting. but make sure you put the sert where it will benifit
Can you put grease plugs into a strut that doesnt have them?
DO NOT Drill a hole in a suspension strut.These are either oil or gas filled.
They do not require lubricant of any kind and drilling into it will seriously
damage it.If you are experiencing excessive wear then you may need to look
at some kind off heavy duty upgrade instead of the standard fitments.
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