my suspension is still really bad. i changed the struts last year and the coil springs a couple weeks ago. but the suspension is still bottoming out when i go over a bump. cant even do anything with it on the freeway becase the front starts to move up and down and i scrape the body on the road. what can be wrong? (1992 Toyota Celica GT. ---4 cyl. 2.2L)
What can be wrong?
has the car been fitted with original manufactured parts (OEM), or aftermarket performance parts? has it lowerd? a pro should look at it either way.
What can be wrong?
Sounds like wrong struts or springs to me, get it back to the shop that did the work and explain what is going on. They should fix it for free, good luck.
Hopefuly you installed New parts. I have seen folks who will use old parts.
With struts and new springs I would wonder if your drag link and other steering components up front are giving up.
Has your car been in any major accidents. It could be your chassis is flexing from fatigue due to damadge. If this is the case your best bet is to get out of this car pronto before it hurts you and someone else.
Wish I could extend to you more positive information but this does sound terminal.
jerry
get your strut pots checked to make sure they are tight and correctly holding your struts in position...if they are worn or damaged, it will make a clunking noise when you hit a big pothole or bump...good luck!
Thursday, October 6, 2011
How to change coil springs on 2002 Grand Prix?
I have a set of lowering springs for my Grand Prix but I cannot find instructions on how to change them. I know the strut has to be removed but I would like to know if there are instructions or if someone could let me know what all is involved.
How to change coil springs on 2002 Grand Prix?
Thats a job for a mechanic shop! You'll end up wearing a coil spring if you try to do it yerself! Those coil springs are under high compression, and will surely be nothing but trouble, unless you have the proper tools and know-how to do the job!
How to change coil springs on 2002 Grand Prix?
My 14 year old son (at the time) tried to change his coil springs, and found out, after many hours of getting out of the %26quot;fix%26quot; he found himself in, that what i had told him was true---Don't try it!--you'll get in big trouble, and have many problems! And, he did! He finally solved his problem.
How to change coil springs on 2002 Grand Prix?
Thats a job for a mechanic shop! You'll end up wearing a coil spring if you try to do it yerself! Those coil springs are under high compression, and will surely be nothing but trouble, unless you have the proper tools and know-how to do the job!
How to change coil springs on 2002 Grand Prix?
My 14 year old son (at the time) tried to change his coil springs, and found out, after many hours of getting out of the %26quot;fix%26quot; he found himself in, that what i had told him was true---Don't try it!--you'll get in big trouble, and have many problems! And, he did! He finally solved his problem.
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After coming off highway or lots of city driving oil, light turns on when i turn steering wheel all the way?
1995 ford taurus...i know i need to change my passenger side front strut....had an oil change a few days ago...yet still i get this happening....off of highway and oil light blinks as as i slow down to 5mph and stop.....then when i am parking as i turn wheels oil light turns red...what could this be? after it cools down its good as new
After coming off highway or lots of city driving oil, light turns on when i turn steering wheel all the way?
The only way to know for sure if your oil pressure is truly too low as is being indicated by the red dash oil light is to have a shop hook up a professional oil pressure gauge directly to your engine and measure the oil pressure at hot engine idle when it's the lowest. It should be at least 12 psi. If not, you might need a new oil pump. Of course your hoping it's a faulty oil pressure sensor which is a low cost repair to replace while your at the shop.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NO鈥?/a>
After coming off highway or lots of city driving oil, light turns on when i turn steering wheel all the way?
Definately Gremlins im afraid.
low oil. eletrical short on oil light.low oil pressure.wrong oil grade.???
not enough oil is in your crankcase...check your oil... The viscosity of your oil gets thinner when it's hot and at an idle it drops slightly below safe oil pressure...when your turning your adding enough stress to your engine that it sends a low pressure light...
have this checked out as continuous low pressure can cause premature engine failure...
The reason it seems good as new when it's cold is the oil starts out thicker, but becomes thinner as it gets hot...
This whole problem may be it just is short some oil....
After coming off highway or lots of city driving oil, light turns on when i turn steering wheel all the way?
The only way to know for sure if your oil pressure is truly too low as is being indicated by the red dash oil light is to have a shop hook up a professional oil pressure gauge directly to your engine and measure the oil pressure at hot engine idle when it's the lowest. It should be at least 12 psi. If not, you might need a new oil pump. Of course your hoping it's a faulty oil pressure sensor which is a low cost repair to replace while your at the shop.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NO鈥?/a>
After coming off highway or lots of city driving oil, light turns on when i turn steering wheel all the way?
Definately Gremlins im afraid.
low oil. eletrical short on oil light.low oil pressure.wrong oil grade.???
not enough oil is in your crankcase...check your oil... The viscosity of your oil gets thinner when it's hot and at an idle it drops slightly below safe oil pressure...when your turning your adding enough stress to your engine that it sends a low pressure light...
have this checked out as continuous low pressure can cause premature engine failure...
The reason it seems good as new when it's cold is the oil starts out thicker, but becomes thinner as it gets hot...
This whole problem may be it just is short some oil....
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid?
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid?
REST OF THE PROBLEM...
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid bulkheads in the engine room of a submarine, (a) Calculate the change in temperature of the strut if it absorbs an energy of 3.00 x 10^5j. (b) Calculate the compressional stress in the strut.
The book has an answer of (a) 68.2C and (b) 1.50 x 10^8.
PLEASE HELP ME I HAVE DONE THIS PROBLEM THREE TIME AND STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW THIS ANSWER CAME ABOUT, PLEASE SHOW ME THANK YOU
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid?
You are missing a piece of information, and that is the specific heat density of the steel, i.e. the joules/m^3/kelvin. With this information, you would simply calculate the volume of steel you have in the beam, then divide the number of joules by the volume and joules*m^3/kelvin and it should give you the degrees change
REST OF THE PROBLEM...
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid bulkheads in the engine room of a submarine, (a) Calculate the change in temperature of the strut if it absorbs an energy of 3.00 x 10^5j. (b) Calculate the compressional stress in the strut.
The book has an answer of (a) 68.2C and (b) 1.50 x 10^8.
PLEASE HELP ME I HAVE DONE THIS PROBLEM THREE TIME AND STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW THIS ANSWER CAME ABOUT, PLEASE SHOW ME THANK YOU
Suppose a steel strut with cross-sectional 5.00 x 10^-4m^2 and length 2.50m is bolted between two rigid?
You are missing a piece of information, and that is the specific heat density of the steel, i.e. the joules/m^3/kelvin. With this information, you would simply calculate the volume of steel you have in the beam, then divide the number of joules by the volume and joules*m^3/kelvin and it should give you the degrees change
1997 grand am struts?
i just today changed my struts. Before i changed them i had a little pull to the left but now that they have been changed they are pulling a lot more to the right. Is this normal i plan on going to get it aligned tomorrow cause its sunday and no auto shops are open
1997 grand am struts?
You must get it aligned. Anytime you change a component on your suspension (includes tires), you should have your alignment checked. So to answer your question 'is it normal', Yes. Easily fixed, Mostly. Your problem may be caused by some other component you did not know about or missed. 'NOTE' All GM car struts can be adjusted, but it may require cam-bolts, or strut plate adjustment.
1997 grand am struts?
needs an alignmentrow cell chaep web hosts
1997 grand am struts?
You must get it aligned. Anytime you change a component on your suspension (includes tires), you should have your alignment checked. So to answer your question 'is it normal', Yes. Easily fixed, Mostly. Your problem may be caused by some other component you did not know about or missed. 'NOTE' All GM car struts can be adjusted, but it may require cam-bolts, or strut plate adjustment.
1997 grand am struts?
needs an alignment
My car is making a low groaning noise when I turn the wheel to the righ?
I have a 2003 ford Focus and it makes the noise when I'm driving and at stand still. It's not hard to turn the wheel or anything just the noise. The steering wheel shakes a little but nothing bad. I just changed the spings and struts on my car because of a clunking noise and that went away. But now there's this groaning noise. Any ideas. Thanks
My car is making a low groaning noise when I turn the wheel to the righ?
also check the wheel bearings. probably not the problem but they are a common ford problem.
My car is making a low groaning noise when I turn the wheel to the righ?
It's your power steering. Just get some fluid and you'll be fine.
My car is making a low groaning noise when I turn the wheel to the righ?
also check the wheel bearings. probably not the problem but they are a common ford problem.
My car is making a low groaning noise when I turn the wheel to the righ?
It's your power steering. Just get some fluid and you'll be fine.
Do you need coil springs when you change to coilover shocks and struts?
I have a 90 Mustang LX and doing my homework before upgrading my suspension. What i want to know is, will i need coil springs when upgradin to coil over shocks and struts?
Do you need coil springs when you change to coilover shocks and struts?
No.
Do you need coil springs when you change to coilover shocks and struts?
No.
Is it a good idea to change my original struts, coil spring, and mounts on my 1995 Nissan Quest XE? ?
My 1995 Nissan Quest currently still has the same original struts, coil spring, and mounts for 14 years already (I bought my quest in 1994 as a 1995 year model). My 95 quest currently has about 98,500. Every time I turn in to an intersection or i pull into my driveway or if i go through a speed bumb i hear some time of squeaky noises.
Please someone tell me if i have to change my struts.
oh and one more thing which brand of struts should i get monroe or gabriel? Which brand is better?
Is it a good idea to change my original struts, coil spring, and mounts on my 1995 Nissan Quest XE? ?
They the factory will say yes.But if your front end does not sag,springs are good,if the front end does not bounce more than once when bouncing it by hand,then the shocks are good ,plus if there is no signs of a leak .But the squeak could be the mounts,not only of the struts,but also check the lower control arm,any sway bar bushings they could be worn.Plus check out the upper and lower ball joints,tie rod ends for play..If you do not have a shimmy then there is a good chance the joints and tie rods are good,,But check it out any way...Both are good brands I prefer Monroe
Please someone tell me if i have to change my struts.
oh and one more thing which brand of struts should i get monroe or gabriel? Which brand is better?
Is it a good idea to change my original struts, coil spring, and mounts on my 1995 Nissan Quest XE? ?
They the factory will say yes.But if your front end does not sag,springs are good,if the front end does not bounce more than once when bouncing it by hand,then the shocks are good ,plus if there is no signs of a leak .But the squeak could be the mounts,not only of the struts,but also check the lower control arm,any sway bar bushings they could be worn.Plus check out the upper and lower ball joints,tie rod ends for play..If you do not have a shimmy then there is a good chance the joints and tie rods are good,,But check it out any way...Both are good brands I prefer Monroe
Was I justified in getting mad?
So I took my car into a firestone to get an alignment - I usually take it to a trusted mechanic and he is very good about doing an honest job, but I was in a hurry, and he was backed up so I took it to firestone to get in and out quickly...
Its a 2001 Forester
Anyway... I took it in for an alignment - they took the car in told me it would cost $50 I was like ok... gave them the keys and sat down...
Ten minues later he comes back with a list... he told me that he neeeded to remove the front axle, change the struts, change the shocks, change this and that (a list of like 25 repairs)... and that the alignment would be useless unless he did the job... he also told me that the car would fail if he did not do said repairs...
So he handed me a bill for a grand total of $2100...
I got so pissed that I was like %26quot;this is bullshit%26quot; and told him to take the car down and give me the keys... I was yelling and cussing up and down...
Do you think they were trying to rip me off? I absolutely think they were lying...
Was I justified in getting mad?
If they gave you a list that you are not sure of then take it to your usual mechanic and see if they were accurate with the estimate. But all those things you listed will give a bad alignment if not repaired. I know that not being able to tell if he is lying is frustrating but not everyone is out to rip you off. But you are not wrong for not doing the work if you aren't sure it is legit, but nobody here can tell you if it was or wasn't. Just take the estimate to your regular mechanic to see what they say and then decide if you want to do it or not.
Was I justified in getting mad?
well unless he performed the work, he did nothing wrong--if i understand
and if he did without your permission, he should go to jail
Do you have to ask? Of course they're trying to rip you off. They need your money to live on.
He was probably being honest with you, I think that was wrong of you. Try taking it to another place, and see if they say the same? :( I'm dissapointed in you.
Getting mad doesn't help anything. I used to be a car mechanic and I can tell you that cars have so many things wrong with them that we didn't have to make things up.
It is true that if your car has bad parts , it won't do any good to try to do an alignment.
Get someone else to check it out too. Then compare what they each tell you.
You know, an 8 year old car may need a replacement, you may have wished you hadn't done that when you are halfway through a highway in the middle of nowhere when your axle splits off and your tires flatten, and there's no cell phone service!!! X_X
Yes you were justified in getting angry. Don't be so quick to assume that though.
Next time, even if you're sure you're getting the raw end of the deal, ask him legitimate questions until it's obvious you know he's trying to rip you off.
That way you come off as nice and mild tempered, and you get to smile at his face when he realizes you know whats up.
so you didnt go for the pitch so what/miles and what the tires look like would be a good indicator of what was wrong/ However thats not the point/you have flown off the handle for what? all of this type of avoidable stress is no good for you/ a calmer approach is necessary to keep your composure/ i would have just laughed and said O-really/well i dont have time right now and i would have had a hard time to keep a straight face/ but every time you get aggravated takes a little of you with it and thats no good. good luck
They may or may not have been accurate or honest - the only way to find out is to take the laundry list that they created and head for another shop, or two or three.... and get multiple opinions and estimates.
And never give any of the other shops any of the previous shops information - keep that to yourself, simply ask for a %26quot;Safety Inspection%26quot; because you think your car might be wandering a bit more recently ... this will prompt them to carefully inspect the steering and front suspension components and report any worn or damaged components.
When in doubt always get Estimates
On any major repair I recommend that you get 3 or 4 estimates from local service facilities unless you are lucky enough to have a shop with an absolutely stellar reputation available. Compare the estimates and choose one of the middle estimates. My reasoning for this is the low estimate either left something out or worse is deliberately giving a low ball estimate to get you in and then when your car is all torn apart they find all sorts of critically important things wrong with it which run your bill through the roof. Do the leg work and be an informed car owner. No reliable technician or shop will give an estimate for repair site unseen except as a budgetary estimate which will be a range from the middle average to the unusual high end possible.
Its a 2001 Forester
Anyway... I took it in for an alignment - they took the car in told me it would cost $50 I was like ok... gave them the keys and sat down...
Ten minues later he comes back with a list... he told me that he neeeded to remove the front axle, change the struts, change the shocks, change this and that (a list of like 25 repairs)... and that the alignment would be useless unless he did the job... he also told me that the car would fail if he did not do said repairs...
So he handed me a bill for a grand total of $2100...
I got so pissed that I was like %26quot;this is bullshit%26quot; and told him to take the car down and give me the keys... I was yelling and cussing up and down...
Do you think they were trying to rip me off? I absolutely think they were lying...
Was I justified in getting mad?
If they gave you a list that you are not sure of then take it to your usual mechanic and see if they were accurate with the estimate. But all those things you listed will give a bad alignment if not repaired. I know that not being able to tell if he is lying is frustrating but not everyone is out to rip you off. But you are not wrong for not doing the work if you aren't sure it is legit, but nobody here can tell you if it was or wasn't. Just take the estimate to your regular mechanic to see what they say and then decide if you want to do it or not.
Was I justified in getting mad?
well unless he performed the work, he did nothing wrong--if i understand
and if he did without your permission, he should go to jail
Do you have to ask? Of course they're trying to rip you off. They need your money to live on.
He was probably being honest with you, I think that was wrong of you. Try taking it to another place, and see if they say the same? :( I'm dissapointed in you.
Getting mad doesn't help anything. I used to be a car mechanic and I can tell you that cars have so many things wrong with them that we didn't have to make things up.
It is true that if your car has bad parts , it won't do any good to try to do an alignment.
Get someone else to check it out too. Then compare what they each tell you.
You know, an 8 year old car may need a replacement, you may have wished you hadn't done that when you are halfway through a highway in the middle of nowhere when your axle splits off and your tires flatten, and there's no cell phone service!!! X_X
Yes you were justified in getting angry. Don't be so quick to assume that though.
Next time, even if you're sure you're getting the raw end of the deal, ask him legitimate questions until it's obvious you know he's trying to rip you off.
That way you come off as nice and mild tempered, and you get to smile at his face when he realizes you know whats up.
so you didnt go for the pitch so what/miles and what the tires look like would be a good indicator of what was wrong/ However thats not the point/you have flown off the handle for what? all of this type of avoidable stress is no good for you/ a calmer approach is necessary to keep your composure/ i would have just laughed and said O-really/well i dont have time right now and i would have had a hard time to keep a straight face/ but every time you get aggravated takes a little of you with it and thats no good. good luck
They may or may not have been accurate or honest - the only way to find out is to take the laundry list that they created and head for another shop, or two or three.... and get multiple opinions and estimates.
And never give any of the other shops any of the previous shops information - keep that to yourself, simply ask for a %26quot;Safety Inspection%26quot; because you think your car might be wandering a bit more recently ... this will prompt them to carefully inspect the steering and front suspension components and report any worn or damaged components.
When in doubt always get Estimates
On any major repair I recommend that you get 3 or 4 estimates from local service facilities unless you are lucky enough to have a shop with an absolutely stellar reputation available. Compare the estimates and choose one of the middle estimates. My reasoning for this is the low estimate either left something out or worse is deliberately giving a low ball estimate to get you in and then when your car is all torn apart they find all sorts of critically important things wrong with it which run your bill through the roof. Do the leg work and be an informed car owner. No reliable technician or shop will give an estimate for repair site unseen except as a budgetary estimate which will be a range from the middle average to the unusual high end possible.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
I have a scion TC and I recently bought shocks and struts for it. I've changed my brakes before. I can't find anything on changing the suspension. Can an average person do this in their garage?
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
Not recommended without some prior experience and the proper tools. Removing compressed springs can be dangerous and destructive if not properly removed.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
With the right tools any job can be easy. But with shocks and struts your working with compressed springs and without the proper tools it might be a job best left up to the pros.
The specialized tooling for this job could be as expensive as paying some one to do it.
Spring compressor with safety cage
Pickle fork.
Knowledge.........
Come on over, I have the tools and the knowledge. Bring your wallet.
Even with a DIY guide and the right tools, it's going to be hell the first time, especially if you aren't working with someone who knows how to do it. The front springs are not so hard to get to, but the rear springs are a PAIN to get to on the tC. Luckily, I have a friend who's changed springs on tC's many times, but it still took us a little over two hours and a LOT of work. Even after helping out and watching carefully, I still wouldn't want to attempt this by myself without more experience. Changing the brakes is cake compared to this.
I would suggest you shop around and find a trusted shop to do it for you unless you can get someone you know who has done it before to help you.
You have to get a spring compressor and make sure the springs line up right on the struts or else that will clank.howtofalloutoflovewithsomeone red acne spots on face
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
Not recommended without some prior experience and the proper tools. Removing compressed springs can be dangerous and destructive if not properly removed.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
With the right tools any job can be easy. But with shocks and struts your working with compressed springs and without the proper tools it might be a job best left up to the pros.
The specialized tooling for this job could be as expensive as paying some one to do it.
Spring compressor with safety cage
Pickle fork.
Knowledge.........
Come on over, I have the tools and the knowledge. Bring your wallet.
Even with a DIY guide and the right tools, it's going to be hell the first time, especially if you aren't working with someone who knows how to do it. The front springs are not so hard to get to, but the rear springs are a PAIN to get to on the tC. Luckily, I have a friend who's changed springs on tC's many times, but it still took us a little over two hours and a LOT of work. Even after helping out and watching carefully, I still wouldn't want to attempt this by myself without more experience. Changing the brakes is cake compared to this.
I would suggest you shop around and find a trusted shop to do it for you unless you can get someone you know who has done it before to help you.
You have to get a spring compressor and make sure the springs line up right on the struts or else that will clank.
Squishy sound from rear of car?
shop told me it was my struts changed my struts car still makes noise only when i go over bumps. if im on flat road no noise. when ihit a bump it sounds just like a piece of rubber getting squeezed its been driving me nuts for a year. wtf else can it be? could it be defective struts? they are monroe sensatrac
Squishy sound from rear of car?
Could be the bump stops Try some silicone spray on the bump stops and up under the spring pad?
Squishy sound from rear of car?
your question needs more information what kind of car is it?
it could be your sway bar it could be from something other then the suspension too.
could also be comming from your tires them selfs.
please provide info.
What size tire are you using? oversize tires will rub on the lower coil spring mount causing the tire to rub on it. or you got the wrong strut
would help to know what car ..what yr,,,,,
maybe panhard bar bushings
Squishy sound from rear of car?
Could be the bump stops Try some silicone spray on the bump stops and up under the spring pad?
Squishy sound from rear of car?
your question needs more information what kind of car is it?
it could be your sway bar it could be from something other then the suspension too.
could also be comming from your tires them selfs.
please provide info.
What size tire are you using? oversize tires will rub on the lower coil spring mount causing the tire to rub on it. or you got the wrong strut
would help to know what car ..what yr,,,,,
maybe panhard bar bushings
What changes do I have to make to put 20's on a 2004 standerd Impalla, the rear strut sit on the tires.?
You need to do a body lift and a suspension lift to do this
What changes do I have to make to put 20's on a 2004 standerd Impalla, the rear strut sit on the tires.?
Need to change the offset.
Try this site to find different rim sizes to fit your car.
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/G鈥?/a>
What changes do I have to make to put 20's on a 2004 standerd Impalla, the rear strut sit on the tires.?
Need to change the offset.
Try this site to find different rim sizes to fit your car.
http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/G鈥?/a>
What is a good estimate to change the front two struts on a Nissan Maxima 1995?
What sort of estimate are you looking to get? Do you want the amount of time or price to do the job yourself or have a garage do it?
If you intend to do the repair yourself, Napa Auto Parts (http://www.napaonline.com) has 1995 Maxima Struts listed for about $80. If doing this at a garage, expect some amount of markup on the part. If you don't have the necessary tools, check with a local auto part store to see if they have a loaner program. Given the age of the vehicle, expect to need to replace the nuts and bolts related to the repair. I don't have an estimate for these but the local Nissan shop should have some %26quot;shop bolts%26quot; that they can sell pretty cheap (not unusual for them to just give them away instead of charging as they aren't very expensive). If going to a shop, I'd expect about 2 hours of mechanic time (they'll have all the air tools to cut the time compared to an at home repair which could take anywhere from 4-8 hours depending no your setup). If you aren't going to a garage that specifically deals in suspension (Meineke - http://www.meineke.com specializes in suspension, breaks, and mufflers), expect the garage to need additional time to receive the parts.
One thing you can do is ask for a rough estimate directly from the local repair shops over the phone. They'll probably tell you that they need to see the vehicle but you should be able to insist on a ball park estimate to get you started.
Oh, check a publication like the %26quot;Pennysaver%26quot; for local garages advertising special deals too. They often run ads for things like this, radiator flushing, timing belts, etc...
What is a good estimate to change the front two struts on a Nissan Maxima 1995?
Both sides according to Alldata get 3.6 hours flat rate. The struts themselves are about $185.00 each, also according to Alldata.
If you need the upper strut mounts you are looking at $42.90 ea. @ 4.0 hrs, for both sides. Also, according to Alldata.
If you intend to do the repair yourself, Napa Auto Parts (http://www.napaonline.com) has 1995 Maxima Struts listed for about $80. If doing this at a garage, expect some amount of markup on the part. If you don't have the necessary tools, check with a local auto part store to see if they have a loaner program. Given the age of the vehicle, expect to need to replace the nuts and bolts related to the repair. I don't have an estimate for these but the local Nissan shop should have some %26quot;shop bolts%26quot; that they can sell pretty cheap (not unusual for them to just give them away instead of charging as they aren't very expensive). If going to a shop, I'd expect about 2 hours of mechanic time (they'll have all the air tools to cut the time compared to an at home repair which could take anywhere from 4-8 hours depending no your setup). If you aren't going to a garage that specifically deals in suspension (Meineke - http://www.meineke.com specializes in suspension, breaks, and mufflers), expect the garage to need additional time to receive the parts.
One thing you can do is ask for a rough estimate directly from the local repair shops over the phone. They'll probably tell you that they need to see the vehicle but you should be able to insist on a ball park estimate to get you started.
Oh, check a publication like the %26quot;Pennysaver%26quot; for local garages advertising special deals too. They often run ads for things like this, radiator flushing, timing belts, etc...
What is a good estimate to change the front two struts on a Nissan Maxima 1995?
Both sides according to Alldata get 3.6 hours flat rate. The struts themselves are about $185.00 each, also according to Alldata.
If you need the upper strut mounts you are looking at $42.90 ea. @ 4.0 hrs, for both sides. Also, according to Alldata.
Struts on a toyota camry 93?
i have a 93 toyota camry v6. i need to change my struts on my car. so i a bought a parts car car. it is also a 93 toyota camry 4cylinder...
so i was wonder if the strutz on a 6cyliner and a 4cylinder is the same size..
Struts on a toyota camry 93?
The 4 cylinder sedan and the 6 cylinder sedan DX, LE and XLE not the SE, are the same.
The SE japan built and North America built are different.
Good luck
Struts on a toyota camry 93?
NOT the same. 6 cylinder is heavier, so bigger struts.
And I wouldn't buy a parts car for struts. New inserts are under $100 per pair. Used struts are worn struts.
I'm betting that they will fit, but they are not the same.
To be sure, call a parts store and ask for price of the struts with a 6 cyl. After you get the price, ask if it is the same part for a 4 cyl.
Yep, they should be the same as stated, I myself wouldn't go
through the work %26amp; front end alignment on a guess that the
one's in the replacing Camrys aren't going to take a dump on
you in a short time...
But hey, what have you got to lose ? Save all spare parts until
you're sure things are ok. And pick the best struts mounts that
you have out of them all.
Good Luck to You
95 Camry LE Owner...
so i was wonder if the strutz on a 6cyliner and a 4cylinder is the same size..
Struts on a toyota camry 93?
The 4 cylinder sedan and the 6 cylinder sedan DX, LE and XLE not the SE, are the same.
The SE japan built and North America built are different.
Good luck
Struts on a toyota camry 93?
NOT the same. 6 cylinder is heavier, so bigger struts.
And I wouldn't buy a parts car for struts. New inserts are under $100 per pair. Used struts are worn struts.
I'm betting that they will fit, but they are not the same.
To be sure, call a parts store and ask for price of the struts with a 6 cyl. After you get the price, ask if it is the same part for a 4 cyl.
Yep, they should be the same as stated, I myself wouldn't go
through the work %26amp; front end alignment on a guess that the
one's in the replacing Camrys aren't going to take a dump on
you in a short time...
But hey, what have you got to lose ? Save all spare parts until
you're sure things are ok. And pick the best struts mounts that
you have out of them all.
Good Luck to You
95 Camry LE Owner...
Do you do your own car maintance or just take it to Jiffy Lube or a place like that?
I do it myself and save alot of money. I do almost everything from a tune up to changing brake pads, and even my alternator. The only thing i take into the mecahnic for is if i need to change something like shocks or struts.
Do you do your own car maintance or just take it to Jiffy Lube or a place like that?
My late Dad used to have a hoist and gobs of tools and I did all of my cars there. Now hes gone and so's the hoist but I have the gobs of snap on tools and jacks and stands so...I can do allot. The really major stuff I save for professionals and I need a bit of advice from Mr. good wrench from time time but, I don't trust anyone torquing my lugs, I do it with Dads old snap-on torque wrench.....because these are things I have had drilled into my head by my Dad. He was a Chevy service manager/owner for 45 years in his own shop. That man could really diagnose a car if he knew all the detail, he would have loved this site. He taught me many many %26quot;tricks%26quot; of the trade that really make jobs easier...Now I really find a lot of good knowledge at this site and it kind of replaces calling up Dad for advice......but I feel his spirit when I use his tools...thanks
Do you do your own car maintance or just take it to Jiffy Lube or a place like that?
i do about 99% of my maintenance and i agree it saves ALOT of money.
I take it to a place like that.
HAHAHA THAT'S WHY THEY GET PAID FOR!!!
I'd like to do that, but I drive a Vokswagon and they make them more difficult for just anyone to work on for some reason.
I also live in an apartment complex and I don't feel safe crawling under a car in my parking lot
I used to do it all myself (including shocks, struts, and exhaust system). Eventually I realized that my time in doing little things was worth more than I would pay a mechanic.
over the winter, i used to take my car in for oil changes and things that i didnt feel like freezing my *** for.
when it started getting nice again, i tried changing my oil but come to find out, the oil drain plug was horribly stripped.
its definetly best to do it yourself, not only do you save a few bucks, but you dont have to waste your time trying to fix other people's mistakes on YOUR own car
I do everything myself. But, then again, that's what I do for a living. Shocks are easy, leave struts to a shop.
I do most of it if I have the time. I find the time for small jobs like oil changes.brakes,tuneups etc. Changing out the intake or putting different gears in the rear, that I will let my mechanic take care of it.Or if I need special tools.
Places like that .
Yep saves a hell of a lot the more you know the better.I do everything from tuning,servicing,brakes,bearings,shocks,鈥?coz i can
I do all the work on my truck myself for two reasons:
1) I don't trust other people working on my truck. I don't know their qualifications, and what they do or don't do to fix my truck.
2) I'm a college student. I can't afford to take my truck to the shop for repairs.
It saves a ton of money, and you can usually get the work done in less amount of time anyways. When it's in the shop, it's not like you'll be going anywhere anyways.
Plus, it helps when your own personal garage has more tools than many of the service shops.
let me ask you this.who do you trust?most places like that offer fast servicebut is it to fast to do a good job?I work at one that had 1 pit man for 4 bays.each bays 10 mins tops.it's to easy for mistakes.we bought a 1000 dollar rearend because one pit man left the plug out of it when checking it.they arepayed to sell product and do it fast.think about it.....
i do almost all my own work i dont do any major engine repair on my own car because i dont like to or trans work but i will swap out struts shock plugs wires belts hoses batteries and i also do most of hte work on my sisters and mothers cars and do a lot of work on the side i am a mechanic and i know what i am doing
Always do it myself, even though sometimes it's a pain the the a**!
My brother took his car to Jiffy Lube and they put the wrong oil filter on. He paid, backed out of the garage but noticed a huge pool of oil on the ground.
The mistaken filter allowed all the oil to leak out of the engine right away. If he would have just driven off, the engine would have burnt up completely.
Several friends of mine have had Jiffy places forget to tighten the oil plug. After a few days the plug falls off, completely draining the engine of oil in a few seconds, burning it up.
The guys in jiffy places are paid minimum wage and are not mechanics. If they do something wrong and you drive off without noticing, it's extremely hard to prove it was them that ruined your engine.
I take it to a local shop. I'm not mechanically inclined. The place I go does a good job, but they don't charge a ton of money.
i do that **** myself see having older brothers actually helped to teach me a thing or two lol
I do everything myself.give advice to shy people migrating existing portal
Do you do your own car maintance or just take it to Jiffy Lube or a place like that?
My late Dad used to have a hoist and gobs of tools and I did all of my cars there. Now hes gone and so's the hoist but I have the gobs of snap on tools and jacks and stands so...I can do allot. The really major stuff I save for professionals and I need a bit of advice from Mr. good wrench from time time but, I don't trust anyone torquing my lugs, I do it with Dads old snap-on torque wrench.....because these are things I have had drilled into my head by my Dad. He was a Chevy service manager/owner for 45 years in his own shop. That man could really diagnose a car if he knew all the detail, he would have loved this site. He taught me many many %26quot;tricks%26quot; of the trade that really make jobs easier...Now I really find a lot of good knowledge at this site and it kind of replaces calling up Dad for advice......but I feel his spirit when I use his tools...thanks
Do you do your own car maintance or just take it to Jiffy Lube or a place like that?
i do about 99% of my maintenance and i agree it saves ALOT of money.
I take it to a place like that.
HAHAHA THAT'S WHY THEY GET PAID FOR!!!
I'd like to do that, but I drive a Vokswagon and they make them more difficult for just anyone to work on for some reason.
I also live in an apartment complex and I don't feel safe crawling under a car in my parking lot
I used to do it all myself (including shocks, struts, and exhaust system). Eventually I realized that my time in doing little things was worth more than I would pay a mechanic.
over the winter, i used to take my car in for oil changes and things that i didnt feel like freezing my *** for.
when it started getting nice again, i tried changing my oil but come to find out, the oil drain plug was horribly stripped.
its definetly best to do it yourself, not only do you save a few bucks, but you dont have to waste your time trying to fix other people's mistakes on YOUR own car
I do everything myself. But, then again, that's what I do for a living. Shocks are easy, leave struts to a shop.
I do most of it if I have the time. I find the time for small jobs like oil changes.brakes,tuneups etc. Changing out the intake or putting different gears in the rear, that I will let my mechanic take care of it.Or if I need special tools.
Places like that .
Yep saves a hell of a lot the more you know the better.I do everything from tuning,servicing,brakes,bearings,shocks,鈥?coz i can
I do all the work on my truck myself for two reasons:
1) I don't trust other people working on my truck. I don't know their qualifications, and what they do or don't do to fix my truck.
2) I'm a college student. I can't afford to take my truck to the shop for repairs.
It saves a ton of money, and you can usually get the work done in less amount of time anyways. When it's in the shop, it's not like you'll be going anywhere anyways.
Plus, it helps when your own personal garage has more tools than many of the service shops.
let me ask you this.who do you trust?most places like that offer fast servicebut is it to fast to do a good job?I work at one that had 1 pit man for 4 bays.each bays 10 mins tops.it's to easy for mistakes.we bought a 1000 dollar rearend because one pit man left the plug out of it when checking it.they arepayed to sell product and do it fast.think about it.....
i do almost all my own work i dont do any major engine repair on my own car because i dont like to or trans work but i will swap out struts shock plugs wires belts hoses batteries and i also do most of hte work on my sisters and mothers cars and do a lot of work on the side i am a mechanic and i know what i am doing
Always do it myself, even though sometimes it's a pain the the a**!
My brother took his car to Jiffy Lube and they put the wrong oil filter on. He paid, backed out of the garage but noticed a huge pool of oil on the ground.
The mistaken filter allowed all the oil to leak out of the engine right away. If he would have just driven off, the engine would have burnt up completely.
Several friends of mine have had Jiffy places forget to tighten the oil plug. After a few days the plug falls off, completely draining the engine of oil in a few seconds, burning it up.
The guys in jiffy places are paid minimum wage and are not mechanics. If they do something wrong and you drive off without noticing, it's extremely hard to prove it was them that ruined your engine.
I take it to a local shop. I'm not mechanically inclined. The place I go does a good job, but they don't charge a ton of money.
i do that **** myself see having older brothers actually helped to teach me a thing or two lol
I do everything myself.
MY CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND?
I HAVE A 1994 HONDA ACCORD LX THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE BY THE TIRE IS MAKING A SQUEAKING/CREAKING SOUND WHEN I GO OVER BUMPS OR TURN.DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT THIS IS???I PAID SOMEBODY TO SUPPOSEDLY CHANGE THE STRUT AND CV JOINT BUT ITS STILL MAKING THAT SOUND IT STOPPED ONE DAY AND STARTED BACK UP.
MY CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND?
I would suspect you have a front anti-roll bar bushing or anti-roll bar end link issue. That's the easy stuff. There's an outside chance the inner or outer tie-rod on the right side could be dried out and need replacing with a TRW or Moog grease-able part. There is also a good chance your lower A arm bushings should be inspected along with the lower ball joint.
MY CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND?
the ball joint is bad
I assume you had the work done at a reputable repair facility which furnished you with a receipt as well as a warranty. If so, take it back and have a technician go for a test drive and inspect it. It could be the strut mounts, brakes, wheel bearings, control arm bushing etc..
power steering arm, it's the thing that's next to the cv joint, if it's defective you can see it, it'll be a long stick on left and right side next to cv joint, that would make that kind of sound, mostly when your turning
don't pay somebody to fix it, take it to the shop
MY CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND?
I would suspect you have a front anti-roll bar bushing or anti-roll bar end link issue. That's the easy stuff. There's an outside chance the inner or outer tie-rod on the right side could be dried out and need replacing with a TRW or Moog grease-able part. There is also a good chance your lower A arm bushings should be inspected along with the lower ball joint.
MY CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAKING SOUND?
the ball joint is bad
I assume you had the work done at a reputable repair facility which furnished you with a receipt as well as a warranty. If so, take it back and have a technician go for a test drive and inspect it. It could be the strut mounts, brakes, wheel bearings, control arm bushing etc..
power steering arm, it's the thing that's next to the cv joint, if it's defective you can see it, it'll be a long stick on left and right side next to cv joint, that would make that kind of sound, mostly when your turning
don't pay somebody to fix it, take it to the shop
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
I have a scion TC and I recently bought shocks and struts for it. I've changed my brakes before. I can't find anything on changing the suspension. Can an average person do this in their garage?
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
If you can do the brakes yourself, you can do the shocks too. An average person can't even change their own oil. I would say you are above average. Haynes manuals are pretty good.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
yes, just make sure you get a front end alignment after you're done...
I wouldnt you can break something and then be in bigger trouble.
with the proper tools and knowledge, yes. Get a book, rent the tools.
yeah you can find a person to change your shocks they are very esay to change....
probably not recommended, but if you good with cars or can get some advise from someone, sure why not. Should be that much harder than the brakes.
Dont take a risk call the maintenance guy
No. It takes special equipment, and you need experience to do something as difficult as that.
I would do it in a hearbeat , you need little knowledge. Especially with garages charging $85 an hour.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
If you can do the brakes yourself, you can do the shocks too. An average person can't even change their own oil. I would say you are above average. Haynes manuals are pretty good.
Can an average person change their car's shocks/struts in their garage?
yes, just make sure you get a front end alignment after you're done...
I wouldnt you can break something and then be in bigger trouble.
with the proper tools and knowledge, yes. Get a book, rent the tools.
yeah you can find a person to change your shocks they are very esay to change....
probably not recommended, but if you good with cars or can get some advise from someone, sure why not. Should be that much harder than the brakes.
Dont take a risk call the maintenance guy
No. It takes special equipment, and you need experience to do something as difficult as that.
I would do it in a hearbeat , you need little knowledge. Especially with garages charging $85 an hour.
Why is the left front tire wearing out faster than the others?
I have a 2001 Neon.I had hit a curve not too long ago to avoid a deer. I knoiw my car needs an alignment but for some reason the left front wheel wears out fast. It makes a funny noise to when i drive likes the tires is rubbing against the edge of the street in a way. I changed the strut on that wheel this weekend. Will I need to probally change the tie rod also or is ut because it needs an alignment? Please help me with this guys. I really need to know why my car isnt takin alignment as well.
Why is the left front tire wearing out faster than the others?
Could be bent tire rod. Not expensive to fix.
Why is the left front tire wearing out faster than the others?
ur front end needs lined up,take it to a tire shop and have the front end aligned.
too many right turns?
and too many burn outs rotate the tires as needed or more often if wanted
YOU NEED TO TAKE YOUR CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP AND HAVE THEM TAKE A LOOK AT IT TO SEE IF ANYTHING IS BENT, AND IF IT IS, IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED BEFORE THEY CAN ALIGN YOUR VEHICLE,
IF YOUR VEHICLE IS EATING TIRES LIKE YOU DESCRIBED, YOU NEED TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT BY A PROFESSIONAL AND REPAIRED BY A PROFESSIONAL, EVEN IF YOU REPLACE ALL THE COMMON PARTS YOUR SELF, YOU COULD HAVE BENT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM OR EVEN CRADLE IF YOU HIT THE CURB HARD ENOUGH
IF YOUR CAR IS OUT OF ALIGNMENT ENOUGH THE NOISE YOU ARE HEARING COULD BE THE TIRES GOING DOWN THE ROAD, BECAUSE THEY ARE FIGHTING EACH OTHER, I AM SAYING ONE TIRE WANTS TO GO ONE WAY AND THE OTHER TIRE IS TRYING TO GO A DIFFERENT DIRECTION CREATING THE NOISE
Why is the left front tire wearing out faster than the others?
Could be bent tire rod. Not expensive to fix.
Why is the left front tire wearing out faster than the others?
ur front end needs lined up,take it to a tire shop and have the front end aligned.
too many right turns?
and too many burn outs rotate the tires as needed or more often if wanted
YOU NEED TO TAKE YOUR CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP AND HAVE THEM TAKE A LOOK AT IT TO SEE IF ANYTHING IS BENT, AND IF IT IS, IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED BEFORE THEY CAN ALIGN YOUR VEHICLE,
IF YOUR VEHICLE IS EATING TIRES LIKE YOU DESCRIBED, YOU NEED TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT BY A PROFESSIONAL AND REPAIRED BY A PROFESSIONAL, EVEN IF YOU REPLACE ALL THE COMMON PARTS YOUR SELF, YOU COULD HAVE BENT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM OR EVEN CRADLE IF YOU HIT THE CURB HARD ENOUGH
IF YOUR CAR IS OUT OF ALIGNMENT ENOUGH THE NOISE YOU ARE HEARING COULD BE THE TIRES GOING DOWN THE ROAD, BECAUSE THEY ARE FIGHTING EACH OTHER, I AM SAYING ONE TIRE WANTS TO GO ONE WAY AND THE OTHER TIRE IS TRYING TO GO A DIFFERENT DIRECTION CREATING THE NOISE
What is the clinking noise coming from my suspension?
i recently changed my strut mount on my driver side and the noise stopped but now on my passenger side i noticed that when i ride over crazy bumps with the window down....its very clear that there is a little clink coming from my front suspension......but it wasnt as severe as my strut mount cos that was VERY loud but being that i drive this thing everyday i notice every little detail lol so any mechanics have any idea.? btw i need an alignment for my steering also..........give me an idea don wanna get ripped off by any mechanic lol
What is the clinking noise coming from my suspension?
maybe its a broken sway bar bushing.Parameter.Add() msdn
What is the clinking noise coming from my suspension?
maybe its a broken sway bar bushing.
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
hi, i have a 94 tercel that makes really loud %26quot;tearing metal%26quot; sound whenever people are on other than the driver. it is clearly from the rear passenger side and the tire looks all slashed around the edge where the tread and the side of the tire meet. ive changed the struts, and then it continued so the they made me buy another strut and a spring beacuse suposedly that was the problem all along. now the problem is still there, im out of my wits and im tired of spending sooooo much money and getting no where. plz let me know of anything that could help. thanks
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
Check all 4 wheels, could it be possible at sometime someone changed one of the wheels and that one sticks out further than it is supposed to? Or it may have a different tire than the rest. Take one wheel off from the front, lay it down on something flat. Measure the distance from the flat surface to the center hole, then do that to the right rear wheel. That will tell you if the wheel has been changed.
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
Check all 4 wheels, could it be possible at sometime someone changed one of the wheels and that one sticks out further than it is supposed to? Or it may have a different tire than the rest. Take one wheel off from the front, lay it down on something flat. Measure the distance from the flat surface to the center hole, then do that to the right rear wheel. That will tell you if the wheel has been changed.
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
hi, i have a 94 tercel that makes really loud %26quot;tearing metal%26quot; sound whenever people are on other than the driver. it is clearly from the rear passenger side and the tire looks all slashed around the edge where the tread and the side of the tire meet. ive changed the struts, and then it continued so the they made me buy another strut and a spring beacuse suposedly that was the problem all along. now the problem is still there, im out of my wits and im tired of spending sooooo much money and getting no where. plz let me know of anything that could help. thanks
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
sounds like its to low in the back. the springs hold the weight in the car and hold it up and any weight thats in the car also. strut is only for ride control over bumps
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
think you got the wrong size tires or rims too wide. The tire seems to be hitting the underpanel or wheel well especially when there is more weight. Check they're all same width.
get another car
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
sounds like its to low in the back. the springs hold the weight in the car and hold it up and any weight thats in the car also. strut is only for ride control over bumps
My tercel cant carry any passengers!!! please help!?
think you got the wrong size tires or rims too wide. The tire seems to be hitting the underpanel or wheel well especially when there is more weight. Check they're all same width.
get another car
2000 Lexus es350... Need to change front struts... Need help!!!!?
I want to change them myself.. Where can I find instructions online to guide me through it. I'm a wrench turner from way back but could use some guidance with this one.
2000 Lexus es350... Need to change front struts... Need help!!!!?
The Lexus es350 starts at year 2007.....
2000 Lexus es350... Need to change front struts... Need help!!!!?
Remove strut to knuckle bolts,remove wiring of ABS sensor first so it will not be broken from stretching out,remove top strut mount nuts.Use spring compressor to compress spring before remove strut nut on top.When put back,pay attention to slot on bottom of strut mount.
Best bet is to join a popular Lexus forum like i did.They have a lot of DIY'S with pictures and very helpful with it comes to doing your own repairs i saved thousands over the years by the forum.I use MY.IS.Com but they have others for the ES models
2000 Lexus es350... Need to change front struts... Need help!!!!?
The Lexus es350 starts at year 2007.....
2000 Lexus es350... Need to change front struts... Need help!!!!?
Remove strut to knuckle bolts,remove wiring of ABS sensor first so it will not be broken from stretching out,remove top strut mount nuts.Use spring compressor to compress spring before remove strut nut on top.When put back,pay attention to slot on bottom of strut mount.
Best bet is to join a popular Lexus forum like i did.They have a lot of DIY'S with pictures and very helpful with it comes to doing your own repairs i saved thousands over the years by the forum.I use MY.IS.Com but they have others for the ES models
Grinding noise at front end..?
Ive got this horrible noise comming from my front end. It sounds like grinding coming from one of the wheels, but I doubt its the bearing Nor the cv because I recently changed both. Ive got a 2000 with about 114K on it. Ive had another recent problem with it, off topic, but its with the suspension. Whenever I go over even the slightest bump, it would sound like the whole damn car was falling apart. I changed my struts, that made it a bit better, then I changed my swaybar links, that too helped, but there is still a mean sound when going over bumps. I plan on changing the balljoints when I have a chance. after that, I cant think of what could be making that specific sound. But with all of that, came this horrible grinding noise. I have it even when my tires are straight(Maybe something with the brakes? Too tight?) I noticed that one of the bolts from the back of the calipers are missing, I plan on taking care of that tomorrow morning, till then Im just braking carefully. Could that be the problem, since only one bolt is on, its tighter than the other, causing the grinding noise? I also have noticed that it gets a bit louder when I am turning. Do the brakes tighten up during a turn? When I accelerate, like from a stop light, the grinding is only audible for the beginning, then it goes away after about 10 mph. Does anyone have any comment about this?
Grinding noise at front end..?
it's most likely that your front brake pads have worn out and are grinding against the disc, metal to metal
,.,.,
Grinding noise at front end..?
you might of hit a curb or something it probably messed your suspension up i would get your tires aliened
with just 1 bolt in the caliper then it can bind and not release the pads away from the rotor which will burn up the pads.
Grinding noise at front end..?
it's most likely that your front brake pads have worn out and are grinding against the disc, metal to metal
,.,.,
Grinding noise at front end..?
you might of hit a curb or something it probably messed your suspension up i would get your tires aliened
with just 1 bolt in the caliper then it can bind and not release the pads away from the rotor which will burn up the pads.
Rack and Pinion or something Else?
My 2002 Protege5 has been making a knocking noise coming from the front left side of the car. It only does it going over uneven surfaces. I've stood on the hood the bumper and made the suspension go up and down... no noise, no excess bounce from bad struts. However, when I rock the car back and forth, I hear the noise. I've changed the strut mount, changed the sway bar bushings and still had the noise. I took it to sears and they are telling me that it is the rack and pinion. Does that make sense? I wouldn't think that the rack and pinion would make a knocking noise like that. If there are any experts with advice please help. Thanks.
Rack and Pinion or something Else?
It sounds like you've checked it enough to know it's not dangerous to drive the car. So I would just keep driving it until the problem gets so bad that you can more easily diagnose it.
Rack and Pinion or something Else?
it more than likely is the upper strut mount.
The inner tie rods can clatter when loose. And they are part of the rack and pinion when you buy a long rack but they can be replaced separately at allot less cost. Jack the front wheels off the ground and check the slack by turning the wheels slightly from side to side. If the tie rods are loose you will feel the slack and possibly hear the noise you're talking about. But in my experience I have never had the rack itself to make the noise.
Jack the car up and see if the bushings for the rack are bad.
Yes! They could be correct. The tie points inside the wrack may be worn out. The arms coming out of the wrack should be under tension, not loose.xp serious problems gaining weight
Rack and Pinion or something Else?
It sounds like you've checked it enough to know it's not dangerous to drive the car. So I would just keep driving it until the problem gets so bad that you can more easily diagnose it.
Rack and Pinion or something Else?
it more than likely is the upper strut mount.
The inner tie rods can clatter when loose. And they are part of the rack and pinion when you buy a long rack but they can be replaced separately at allot less cost. Jack the front wheels off the ground and check the slack by turning the wheels slightly from side to side. If the tie rods are loose you will feel the slack and possibly hear the noise you're talking about. But in my experience I have never had the rack itself to make the noise.
Jack the car up and see if the bushings for the rack are bad.
Yes! They could be correct. The tie points inside the wrack may be worn out. The arms coming out of the wrack should be under tension, not loose.
Struts or shocks.?
I've had this 99 sentra for about three years.I changed the struts because when I would hit a small pothole or as I would cross the railroad tracks I could feel the car rattling and such.Now that I changed both struts I could still feel the car rattle what else do you think I should change.
Struts or shocks.?
Most likely a rattle that you %26quot;feel%26quot; is a ball joint or tie rod end. Bad struts generally won't rattle, they just allow the car to bounce 3+times after a bump. The upper strut mounts could also be the culprit, and I'm guessing that if you managed to change the struts yourself, you didn't replace the mounts. BTW, did you get an alignment? It's required after putting in struts.
Struts or shocks.?
grab ahold of each wheel and shake the crap outta it and listen for rattle, sometimes the spring itself will rattle, most shocks come from factory with a plastic tube on the shock and it dampens spring jar while hitting holes,, most replacement shocks do not come with this plastic which is usually broken when you replace shocks so you throw it away,
Struts or shocks.?
Most likely a rattle that you %26quot;feel%26quot; is a ball joint or tie rod end. Bad struts generally won't rattle, they just allow the car to bounce 3+times after a bump. The upper strut mounts could also be the culprit, and I'm guessing that if you managed to change the struts yourself, you didn't replace the mounts. BTW, did you get an alignment? It's required after putting in struts.
Struts or shocks.?
grab ahold of each wheel and shake the crap outta it and listen for rattle, sometimes the spring itself will rattle, most shocks come from factory with a plastic tube on the shock and it dampens spring jar while hitting holes,, most replacement shocks do not come with this plastic which is usually broken when you replace shocks so you throw it away,
96 VW Jetta Tires?
I had my rear struts changed a few months ago, probably 6 months ago. But my car is still taking bumps EXTREAMLY hard, and I'm not sure what the problem could be since I had already changed the struts. It's almost like a bang noise anytime I go over a big bump (which I do try to avoid) but sometimes I cant. Any ideas? Could it just be because she's a small car and takes bumps hard?
96 VW Jetta Tires?
You might want to take a look at the front struts. Does the car lean profoundly in corners? Here is a tip, push down on the front fender, if the car bounces more than three times, new struts are needed. Also check the springs too. How many miles are on it?
96 VW Jetta Tires?
You might want to take a look at the front struts. Does the car lean profoundly in corners? Here is a tip, push down on the front fender, if the car bounces more than three times, new struts are needed. Also check the springs too. How many miles are on it?
Coil over sleeves kit?
If i buy a coil over sleeve kit for my car will it be able to bolt directly onto my cars suspension or will i need to change my strut?
Coil over sleeves kit?
If i buy a coil over sleeve kit for my car will it be able to bolt directly onto my cars suspension or will i need to change my strut?
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on it- do I need new shocks and struts?
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on the car- how essential is it that I get new shocks and struts for my vehicle?
Whenever driving over a bump in the road, especially a bad one, the car %26quot;bottoms out%26quot; very badly. It appears to need new shocks and struts. But Firestone wants to charge me about $950 for shocks and struts! Isn't that too expensive? Shouldn't it be less expensive than that?
If I DON'T have the shocks and struts changed/replaced, then what sort of problems might it cause?
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on it- do I need new shocks and struts?
The answers already given are by and large correct. OEM shocks seldom last more than 30,000 miles, struts are a bit more longer lived. You must be careful if you choose to change your own struts. Yes, you can rent a spring compressor but people have been badly hurt doing this job so unless you have had some experience I would not recommend it. I also agree that $900 is exorbitant. Shop around. You should be able to have this work performed at an independant garage for about 1/2 that amount. Good luck.
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on it- do I need new shocks and struts?
well, i dont know the going rate for labor where you live but in GA. that is expensive. if you dont fix the problem and keep bottoming out the car, you will damage your exhaust, oil pan, transmission pan, and the front end of the car. bottoming out too much will cause the frame to bend and if that happens, the car is trash. that is the reason insurance companies total out cars because once the frame bends, the only way to fix it is to rebuild the car from the ground up with a new frame and you will have lots of body work to do. no matter the price, Get The Shocks and Struts Replaced.
Yes, you need to replace the shocks and struts unless you want to continue bottoming out the suspension. That causes excessive wear on those components. Also whenever you go somewhere and get an estimate on repairs, it is up to you whether it's too expensive or not. There are special tools and knowledge required to replace the struts and that price also should include an alignment. Keep getting estimates until you find the one you can afford%26gt;
YES. OE shocks and struts maybe last about 50k miles.
The problems are ride control and comfort.
And as far as a highway tire shop goes, they charge maximum prices (retail+) for everything. Find a good, reputable independent garage. I bet you can get it done for half the cost.
Maybe you are too fat, dude.....Kidding..
Yeah $950 is real high.... Advance auto has the front struts for 70 bucks each and the rear shocks for 18 each....thats under $200 in parts.
If you are even minimally mechanically inclined...you can do the rears yourself.
Go somewhere else and price the front only.
If the car is bottoming out tho...You might need springs..which is a different story. Good luck
I'm not a mechanic or anything, but if you haven't replaced he shocks %26amp; struts since you've owned it , the car is over 10 yrs old, it's time to bite the bullet and pony up the dough.
- take the car to a smaller mechanic instead of one the chains, get a few estimates before you get it done. see if they'll install them if you can pick up the parts yourself from an auto parts store - you'll save on the parts markup that the mechanics will charge - that's what I do.
Here's some simple tests for shocks. Push down hard on one corner of the vehicle and release quickly. If that area of the vehicle 'bounces more than Up, down and settled, then you probably need to replace the shock/strut on that corner.
The stuts may need to be replaced with this many miles depending upon the road condition that the car spent most of it's life one. I think Firestone is overpricing.. but then again I do my own mechanic work. Replacing the rear shocks is easy and only requires about 3 wrenchs at the most. That's one job just about anyone can do and what you pay for shocks can range from $25 a pair to a hundred based on YOUR preference.
The stuts are a different story. However, they are not that difficult to do either if you have the right 'spring compression tool' which you can rent for cheap (or free) from local parts store. Struts can run about $120 to $300 each again depending on YOUR preference.
I suggest you contact Autozone, Oriely, Napa, etc. and get a quote on the cost of the parts so you can see what firestone is charging for labor. Then you can decide if it's a good deal or not.
Good luck and I hope this helps!graphics animation pets
Whenever driving over a bump in the road, especially a bad one, the car %26quot;bottoms out%26quot; very badly. It appears to need new shocks and struts. But Firestone wants to charge me about $950 for shocks and struts! Isn't that too expensive? Shouldn't it be less expensive than that?
If I DON'T have the shocks and struts changed/replaced, then what sort of problems might it cause?
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on it- do I need new shocks and struts?
The answers already given are by and large correct. OEM shocks seldom last more than 30,000 miles, struts are a bit more longer lived. You must be careful if you choose to change your own struts. Yes, you can rent a spring compressor but people have been badly hurt doing this job so unless you have had some experience I would not recommend it. I also agree that $900 is exorbitant. Shop around. You should be able to have this work performed at an independant garage for about 1/2 that amount. Good luck.
I own a 1996 Pontiac Firebird- there are approximately 136K miles on it- do I need new shocks and struts?
well, i dont know the going rate for labor where you live but in GA. that is expensive. if you dont fix the problem and keep bottoming out the car, you will damage your exhaust, oil pan, transmission pan, and the front end of the car. bottoming out too much will cause the frame to bend and if that happens, the car is trash. that is the reason insurance companies total out cars because once the frame bends, the only way to fix it is to rebuild the car from the ground up with a new frame and you will have lots of body work to do. no matter the price, Get The Shocks and Struts Replaced.
Yes, you need to replace the shocks and struts unless you want to continue bottoming out the suspension. That causes excessive wear on those components. Also whenever you go somewhere and get an estimate on repairs, it is up to you whether it's too expensive or not. There are special tools and knowledge required to replace the struts and that price also should include an alignment. Keep getting estimates until you find the one you can afford%26gt;
YES. OE shocks and struts maybe last about 50k miles.
The problems are ride control and comfort.
And as far as a highway tire shop goes, they charge maximum prices (retail+) for everything. Find a good, reputable independent garage. I bet you can get it done for half the cost.
Maybe you are too fat, dude.....Kidding..
Yeah $950 is real high.... Advance auto has the front struts for 70 bucks each and the rear shocks for 18 each....thats under $200 in parts.
If you are even minimally mechanically inclined...you can do the rears yourself.
Go somewhere else and price the front only.
If the car is bottoming out tho...You might need springs..which is a different story. Good luck
I'm not a mechanic or anything, but if you haven't replaced he shocks %26amp; struts since you've owned it , the car is over 10 yrs old, it's time to bite the bullet and pony up the dough.
- take the car to a smaller mechanic instead of one the chains, get a few estimates before you get it done. see if they'll install them if you can pick up the parts yourself from an auto parts store - you'll save on the parts markup that the mechanics will charge - that's what I do.
Here's some simple tests for shocks. Push down hard on one corner of the vehicle and release quickly. If that area of the vehicle 'bounces more than Up, down and settled, then you probably need to replace the shock/strut on that corner.
The stuts may need to be replaced with this many miles depending upon the road condition that the car spent most of it's life one. I think Firestone is overpricing.. but then again I do my own mechanic work. Replacing the rear shocks is easy and only requires about 3 wrenchs at the most. That's one job just about anyone can do and what you pay for shocks can range from $25 a pair to a hundred based on YOUR preference.
The stuts are a different story. However, they are not that difficult to do either if you have the right 'spring compression tool' which you can rent for cheap (or free) from local parts store. Struts can run about $120 to $300 each again depending on YOUR preference.
I suggest you contact Autozone, Oriely, Napa, etc. and get a quote on the cost of the parts so you can see what firestone is charging for labor. Then you can decide if it's a good deal or not.
Good luck and I hope this helps!
Auto Body Repair shop scam. Please Read. 1996 Cavalier Z-24?
My wife wrecked her 1996 Chevy Cavalier Z-24, and we took it to this shady body shop called Jolley's, and the damage needed to be repaired was the front end. my wife paid in installments, it took about 3 weeks, the guy charged $2,700. But he admitted to buying a front end off of a salvaged 2001 cavalier, and we went pick up the car today, and the bumper he put on it was one from a car that was a 2.0 , not the 2.4 L that our car was, and also one of the clear corner lights leaks water and has condensation on the inside, probably due to a scratch that is evident on the exterior of the lens. Don't you think we deserve the parts to work %26quot;like new%26quot; even if they came off of a used car? I mean, for $2,700, he changed the hood, radiator, charged the A/C, changed the battery, headlights, corner lights, front bumper, hood latch, frame(radiator support), and painted 70% of the car black. Also changed 1 strut in the rear. Do you think I got a good deal? But shouldn't the corner light not leak ?
Auto Body Repair shop scam. Please Read. 1996 Cavalier Z-24?
I worked in a body shop for a while, and you got one hell of a deal. The light should work like you say. But believe me when I tell you the man isn't making much money on this deal, it's a lot of work and time. Just as an example, I have a 1998 Chev, Lumina. I bought a new hood and light. I took it and they installed the hood and light and painted the front end, it cost $1200.00. The hood and light was already paid for. so you got a deal if work was done right.
Auto Body Repair shop scam. Please Read. 1996 Cavalier Z-24?
If he put the wrong bumper on, he should replace it with the correct one, unless it was agreed that a different one was acceptable to you. As to a bad corner light, he should replace that with no question.
If he refuses to make the corrections, at no additional cost, get three estimates from other body shops to correct the problem, and take him to small claims court!!
you should receive the correct parts, and they should work properly even if used. consider small claims court if the dollar amount is within range.
On the bumper, it depends where he got it... If he got it off the 01 salvage, he should have informed you but when you fix with salvage, you sometimes have to take the salvage car's parts.... If he got a bumper from somewhere else, it should have been the correct one unless he couldn't get the 2.4 one anymore (and then a phone call should have been made to clear it with you)
The light also depends upon from where he got it.. If salvage car or not.. but Yeah he should have informed you and tried to make right or at least let you make the judgement call...
I agree that the parts should act like new, but when you rebuild with a salvage car, and don't replace the donor car's problems (like the light) you have what happened here... apparently he was trying to save you money than getting everything perfect and costing you a couple of hundred more....
Apparently, their biggest problem is he didn't apparently keep you in the loop on problems for some reason.
But my question is he painted 70% of the car... How much more would it have been to paint the other 30% and have a total repaint? Lot less problems and lot less masking...
Auto Body Repair shop scam. Please Read. 1996 Cavalier Z-24?
I worked in a body shop for a while, and you got one hell of a deal. The light should work like you say. But believe me when I tell you the man isn't making much money on this deal, it's a lot of work and time. Just as an example, I have a 1998 Chev, Lumina. I bought a new hood and light. I took it and they installed the hood and light and painted the front end, it cost $1200.00. The hood and light was already paid for. so you got a deal if work was done right.
Auto Body Repair shop scam. Please Read. 1996 Cavalier Z-24?
If he put the wrong bumper on, he should replace it with the correct one, unless it was agreed that a different one was acceptable to you. As to a bad corner light, he should replace that with no question.
If he refuses to make the corrections, at no additional cost, get three estimates from other body shops to correct the problem, and take him to small claims court!!
you should receive the correct parts, and they should work properly even if used. consider small claims court if the dollar amount is within range.
On the bumper, it depends where he got it... If he got it off the 01 salvage, he should have informed you but when you fix with salvage, you sometimes have to take the salvage car's parts.... If he got a bumper from somewhere else, it should have been the correct one unless he couldn't get the 2.4 one anymore (and then a phone call should have been made to clear it with you)
The light also depends upon from where he got it.. If salvage car or not.. but Yeah he should have informed you and tried to make right or at least let you make the judgement call...
I agree that the parts should act like new, but when you rebuild with a salvage car, and don't replace the donor car's problems (like the light) you have what happened here... apparently he was trying to save you money than getting everything perfect and costing you a couple of hundred more....
Apparently, their biggest problem is he didn't apparently keep you in the loop on problems for some reason.
But my question is he painted 70% of the car... How much more would it have been to paint the other 30% and have a total repaint? Lot less problems and lot less masking...
What are the signs to look for if you need to change shocks or struts in a car and is it expensive?
a lot of bouncing up and down especially when you hit a bump. If you change out both the shocks and struts + labor should run you about $400 depending on the type of car you have. I have a dodge so mine was fairly cheap. Had mine changed about a year ago.
What are the signs to look for if you need to change shocks or struts in a car and is it expensive?
clunking noise,poor ride
What are the signs to look for if you need to change shocks or struts in a car and is it expensive?
If the car feels loose when going over bumps, if it handles poorly around bumpy corners, or if you jump on the bumper and then jump off, if the vehicle continues to bounce up and down more than one full up/down, you probably need new shocks.
It really depends on the vehicle how expensive they are. For a lot of gm trucks and SUV's, they have torsion springs, which makes it quick and easy to change the shocks, 2 bolts... but for coil over shock style struts, it can get expensive, especially on foreign cars and luxury vehicles.
It's like checking for bad shocks. place your hands on one corner of thecar and push down on the car. If it bounces more than 1 1/2 times it needs struts. The car will also feel like it is %26quot;fishtailing%26quot; going around curves on rough roads.
I just put 4 new struts on my VW Jetta. The parts were about $250.00.
What are the signs to look for if you need to change shocks or struts in a car and is it expensive?
clunking noise,poor ride
What are the signs to look for if you need to change shocks or struts in a car and is it expensive?
If the car feels loose when going over bumps, if it handles poorly around bumpy corners, or if you jump on the bumper and then jump off, if the vehicle continues to bounce up and down more than one full up/down, you probably need new shocks.
It really depends on the vehicle how expensive they are. For a lot of gm trucks and SUV's, they have torsion springs, which makes it quick and easy to change the shocks, 2 bolts... but for coil over shock style struts, it can get expensive, especially on foreign cars and luxury vehicles.
It's like checking for bad shocks. place your hands on one corner of thecar and push down on the car. If it bounces more than 1 1/2 times it needs struts. The car will also feel like it is %26quot;fishtailing%26quot; going around curves on rough roads.
I just put 4 new struts on my VW Jetta. The parts were about $250.00.
I have a 2004 Santa fe with 94,000 miles on it. ?
I have done very little to this vehicle except for regular oil changes, new struts and tires, and breaks. I want to get a tune up. What should I expect they will say about my car.
I have a 2004 Santa fe with 94,000 miles on it. ?
well if you haven't had a timing belt done yet i would strongly suggest replacing that. after that i would say spark plugs and wires, maybe a fuel induction service, and any flushes needed.
I have a 2004 Santa fe with 94,000 miles on it. ?
At 94K, I hope that you have put in a new timing belt. From what I have seen at my dealer, tune-ups run anywhere from $200-300, so prepare to cough up some dough.
I have a 2004 Santa fe with 94,000 miles on it. ?
well if you haven't had a timing belt done yet i would strongly suggest replacing that. after that i would say spark plugs and wires, maybe a fuel induction service, and any flushes needed.
I have a 2004 Santa fe with 94,000 miles on it. ?
At 94K, I hope that you have put in a new timing belt. From what I have seen at my dealer, tune-ups run anywhere from $200-300, so prepare to cough up some dough.
I need info on struts/shocks?
I have a '00 nissan altima and it goes %26quot; boing, boing%26quot; in every single bump i find. My mechanic says that I need to change the struts but he charges about 900 bucks (Including parts)(4 sides) or I can get the parts and he does da labor. I went to ebay and check out some prices and I found a lot of confusion there. What is struts/schocks.Do I need to buy springs. or Should I let the mechanic do whatever he needs to do.
I need info on struts/shocks?
A blown strut could certainly cause the condition you describe and yes, strut replacement is expensive. The quote is reasonable. The 00' Altima has MacPherson struts in the front (which are vertical, not horizontal) and in the rear.
Struts are labor-intensive to replace because unlike shocks, they perform multiple functions. A strut not only dampens suspension motions (like a shock) but also forms the upper locating link for the suspension and supports the coil spring. A shock just dampens the ride, that's it. The entire strut assembly with strut, spring and upper bearing and mount need to be removed and dis-assembled, then the whole thing needs to be re-assembled with the new strut and bolted back into the car. Then the alignment needs to be corrected. It can be done at home with the proper tools (you can rent a spring compressor) but its not for the faint of heart.
As for coil springs, Altima's are prone to coil-spring failure, particularly with the front - I have replaced more than a few broken front springs on these. If it were my car I would replace at least the front coil springs at the same time as the struts. Might as well do new mounts while you are at it. Better to do it while you are already paying the labor instead of having to pay for it all again later.
I need info on struts/shocks?
Just let the mechanic do his thing, he will probably get a discount on good quality parts that will last much longer than what you can get for cheap price.
if your shocks are shot like what your saying %26quot;boing boing%26quot; that means your springs are probably shot now also. If your a cheap skate repace the front STRUTS and COILS one month and drive very conservitivly and replace the rear STRUTS and COILS the fallowing month
do it yourself it will save you alot of money and you will also learn something at the same time
Struts are actually %26quot;Macpherson Struts%26quot; designed originally for racing. They basically horizontal shock absorbers, under compression. I suspect you have little experience working on vehicles. In that case, I HIGHLY recommend for your own sanity, and frankly safety, that your mechanic replace the struts. Struts require special tools, for that compression I mentioned above, and some experience.
Shocks, however are pretty easy for the average person to do. They are just bolt-on parts. You'll need to have jackstands to support the rear axle you're working on though.
I would perform a check, first, to see which ones need replacing. Go out, and push down on the back of your car-if takes more than one bounce to settle, you need shocks. Do the same with the front. If both are bouncing-you need, well, both.
Shouldn't really need to replace the springs, unless you want to. IF you're going to take this to your mechanic, you might as well.
I do NOT advise you trying to install springs yourself.
Holy buttrape thats alot of money to throw down :) I am a tech and i used to work at Nissan i would take it and get a second opinion,. sounds to me like it coukld also be a swaybar link or bushing or your strut tops might need to be serviced. is it a harsh ride or just noisy? if the car is driving straight and not swerving all over road and the ride is the same it normaly is then you do not need struts. and the diff is struts are a integral part of the suspension that support the upper part of the vehicle and are bolted to knuckle where the upper A arm would be in a sla type suspension. The spring sits on the struts and usally is not changed with the struts and can be reused. Check you ride height with a tape measure, from the ground to top of wheel well dead center of rim and compare to specs. also a you can do the jounce test by picking a corner of car and pushing up and down hard and letting go if the car bouces and keeps going more than once or twice your struts are weak.
you have a 2000 model car it doesn't need springs on it this soon,all you need is shocks and struts,and you mechanic is gone crazy ,because it don't cost 900 bucks to put these on and re-align the car up,which has to be done if replacing the front ones,find another mechanic,it should cost around 600 at the most for this job,good luck,i hope this help,s.
Shocks dampen that %26quot;boing, boing%26quot; thing you have going on so it doesn't look like your riding on the back of a jack rabbit. You shouldn't need springs. Usually if a mechanic is willing to let you buy the parts and him install them he is trying to play fair with you. It probably would be best to let him just do his thing so you can drop the hair flying, bunny rabbit thing. By the way, I know quite a bit about cars and I'm not comfortable buying things like shocks and struts on e-bay. E-bay is a good thing for a lot of stuff, but this one really isn't one of them - too risky that you might get the wrong thing.
Shocks, struts take the brunt of a bump, usually though hydraulic oils so the car does bounce around like a buckboard.
Shop around. Sears, Midas etc.... sometimes have on sale, like buy 3 get 1 free. or buy all four struts, get install 50% off. Cycles every 4-6 weeks at Sears.
Shocks can be do it yourself if you have an impact gun, struts are not. I do not believe you have any shocks, only struts. You will have to do a 4 wheel alignment, so do job together. Springs affect ride height, a mechanic should know before starting the job. usually do not replace with out them being broken. Worn out shocks / struts wear out tires and can make driving more dangerous. Plus inspection sticker require good shocks.
Here is another thought too about struts, they will last a long time 5-7 years. probably 30-40% of the cost is in labor of install. buying ebay cheapies, if not a good name brand, may cost you later in labor.
I need info on struts/shocks?
A blown strut could certainly cause the condition you describe and yes, strut replacement is expensive. The quote is reasonable. The 00' Altima has MacPherson struts in the front (which are vertical, not horizontal) and in the rear.
Struts are labor-intensive to replace because unlike shocks, they perform multiple functions. A strut not only dampens suspension motions (like a shock) but also forms the upper locating link for the suspension and supports the coil spring. A shock just dampens the ride, that's it. The entire strut assembly with strut, spring and upper bearing and mount need to be removed and dis-assembled, then the whole thing needs to be re-assembled with the new strut and bolted back into the car. Then the alignment needs to be corrected. It can be done at home with the proper tools (you can rent a spring compressor) but its not for the faint of heart.
As for coil springs, Altima's are prone to coil-spring failure, particularly with the front - I have replaced more than a few broken front springs on these. If it were my car I would replace at least the front coil springs at the same time as the struts. Might as well do new mounts while you are at it. Better to do it while you are already paying the labor instead of having to pay for it all again later.
I need info on struts/shocks?
Just let the mechanic do his thing, he will probably get a discount on good quality parts that will last much longer than what you can get for cheap price.
if your shocks are shot like what your saying %26quot;boing boing%26quot; that means your springs are probably shot now also. If your a cheap skate repace the front STRUTS and COILS one month and drive very conservitivly and replace the rear STRUTS and COILS the fallowing month
do it yourself it will save you alot of money and you will also learn something at the same time
Struts are actually %26quot;Macpherson Struts%26quot; designed originally for racing. They basically horizontal shock absorbers, under compression. I suspect you have little experience working on vehicles. In that case, I HIGHLY recommend for your own sanity, and frankly safety, that your mechanic replace the struts. Struts require special tools, for that compression I mentioned above, and some experience.
Shocks, however are pretty easy for the average person to do. They are just bolt-on parts. You'll need to have jackstands to support the rear axle you're working on though.
I would perform a check, first, to see which ones need replacing. Go out, and push down on the back of your car-if takes more than one bounce to settle, you need shocks. Do the same with the front. If both are bouncing-you need, well, both.
Shouldn't really need to replace the springs, unless you want to. IF you're going to take this to your mechanic, you might as well.
I do NOT advise you trying to install springs yourself.
Holy buttrape thats alot of money to throw down :) I am a tech and i used to work at Nissan i would take it and get a second opinion,. sounds to me like it coukld also be a swaybar link or bushing or your strut tops might need to be serviced. is it a harsh ride or just noisy? if the car is driving straight and not swerving all over road and the ride is the same it normaly is then you do not need struts. and the diff is struts are a integral part of the suspension that support the upper part of the vehicle and are bolted to knuckle where the upper A arm would be in a sla type suspension. The spring sits on the struts and usally is not changed with the struts and can be reused. Check you ride height with a tape measure, from the ground to top of wheel well dead center of rim and compare to specs. also a you can do the jounce test by picking a corner of car and pushing up and down hard and letting go if the car bouces and keeps going more than once or twice your struts are weak.
you have a 2000 model car it doesn't need springs on it this soon,all you need is shocks and struts,and you mechanic is gone crazy ,because it don't cost 900 bucks to put these on and re-align the car up,which has to be done if replacing the front ones,find another mechanic,it should cost around 600 at the most for this job,good luck,i hope this help,s.
Shocks dampen that %26quot;boing, boing%26quot; thing you have going on so it doesn't look like your riding on the back of a jack rabbit. You shouldn't need springs. Usually if a mechanic is willing to let you buy the parts and him install them he is trying to play fair with you. It probably would be best to let him just do his thing so you can drop the hair flying, bunny rabbit thing. By the way, I know quite a bit about cars and I'm not comfortable buying things like shocks and struts on e-bay. E-bay is a good thing for a lot of stuff, but this one really isn't one of them - too risky that you might get the wrong thing.
Shocks, struts take the brunt of a bump, usually though hydraulic oils so the car does bounce around like a buckboard.
Shop around. Sears, Midas etc.... sometimes have on sale, like buy 3 get 1 free. or buy all four struts, get install 50% off. Cycles every 4-6 weeks at Sears.
Shocks can be do it yourself if you have an impact gun, struts are not. I do not believe you have any shocks, only struts. You will have to do a 4 wheel alignment, so do job together. Springs affect ride height, a mechanic should know before starting the job. usually do not replace with out them being broken. Worn out shocks / struts wear out tires and can make driving more dangerous. Plus inspection sticker require good shocks.
Here is another thought too about struts, they will last a long time 5-7 years. probably 30-40% of the cost is in labor of install. buying ebay cheapies, if not a good name brand, may cost you later in labor.
What happens when you get a warning from the cops?
i was with friends going down a street, the alignment on my car is off because i just recently changed out my struts and springs and lowered it. anyways my steering wheel needs to go like 45 degrees to the right to go straight, and i guess i went over the yellow line a couple times.
cop pulled me over asked me if i was drunk came back and just gave me a warning, is my insurance gonna go up from this at all?
What happens when you get a warning from the cops?
No it means get it fixed or else....
What happens when you get a warning from the cops?
nah. thats just a cops way of telling you, %26quot;next time your @$$ is mine%26quot;
No. Warnings aren't a big deal, or anything you should really worry about. They're what cops use to more gently remind people what the rules are when they only break minor ones.
no unless these gestapo police ticket you! Listen people wake up, police will ticket you unless you speak your mind! Know your rights and know the law! Everyone can buy the laws of the state!!!!!!!!!
No! A warning is simply a warning!java pets
cop pulled me over asked me if i was drunk came back and just gave me a warning, is my insurance gonna go up from this at all?
What happens when you get a warning from the cops?
No it means get it fixed or else....
What happens when you get a warning from the cops?
nah. thats just a cops way of telling you, %26quot;next time your @$$ is mine%26quot;
No. Warnings aren't a big deal, or anything you should really worry about. They're what cops use to more gently remind people what the rules are when they only break minor ones.
no unless these gestapo police ticket you! Listen people wake up, police will ticket you unless you speak your mind! Know your rights and know the law! Everyone can buy the laws of the state!!!!!!!!!
No! A warning is simply a warning!
Muslims, do you strut due to the Convention in Geneva?
What happens if the world changes and crimes against humanity cannot be reinforced by nationss who may be powerless to assist you?Go to youtube and type in a koranic toast, look at the video then read the article, will you still strut then ? G.T.A.111/Ross. Hwd, Fla.
Muslims, do you strut due to the Convention in Geneva?
I'm sorry, I do not %26quot;strut,%26quot; as excessive pride is a sin. Have a nice day.
Peace
Muslims, do you strut due to the Convention in Geneva?
I'm sorry, I do not %26quot;strut,%26quot; as excessive pride is a sin. Have a nice day.
Peace
Grinding noise from new rear disc brakes 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix?
I recently replaced my rear brakes, even though it wasn't absolutely necessary, and changed my rear struts. If I apply the brakes at highway speed there is a loud grinding noise and you can feel it too. What is wrong? The car has 85,000 miles and I did not see any rotor damage when I replace the brakes.
Grinding noise from new rear disc brakes 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix?
You never change pads without changing rotors! Throw a new set or rotors on the car and you'll be good to go.
Grinding noise from new rear disc brakes 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix?
wel grinding would be rotors bad but could be job wasnt right so first re check your work something is not right grinding either bad pads or out of line some way grinding leaves marks cant miss it
could be rust that the new brake pads are rubbing on.
How is your front breaks
you may have to adjust your rear drums
Grinding noise from new rear disc brakes 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix?
You never change pads without changing rotors! Throw a new set or rotors on the car and you'll be good to go.
Grinding noise from new rear disc brakes 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix?
wel grinding would be rotors bad but could be job wasnt right so first re check your work something is not right grinding either bad pads or out of line some way grinding leaves marks cant miss it
could be rust that the new brake pads are rubbing on.
How is your front breaks
you may have to adjust your rear drums
How many labor hours to change all 4 struts on a 1999 hyundai accent ?
I dont feel like looking it up but probably 2.2 or so for the front and 2.8 for the rear. So 5 hrs labor times going rate 100/hr give or take 20 bucks depending where you live.
How many labor hours to change all 4 struts on a 1999 hyundai accent ?
its not worth it
How many labor hours to change all 4 struts on a 1999 hyundai accent ?
The answer from WillS sounds right to me, but do your struts really need replacing? The last time I had it done, it was because an overzealous service writer talked me into it. As part of the deal, I asked to see the old struts. When the job was done, I asked for the old strut cartidges and the mechanic pointed to a dumpster full of old parts and told me I could go find them. GRRRRR!
I say there was nothing wrong with the struts.
If your strut cartridges are bad, the car will continue to rock more than twice after hitting a bump and there should some oil seeping from the seals at the top of the strut cartidges.
Have youe mechanic PROVE you need the cartridges.
How many labor hours to change all 4 struts on a 1999 hyundai accent ?
its not worth it
How many labor hours to change all 4 struts on a 1999 hyundai accent ?
The answer from WillS sounds right to me, but do your struts really need replacing? The last time I had it done, it was because an overzealous service writer talked me into it. As part of the deal, I asked to see the old struts. When the job was done, I asked for the old strut cartidges and the mechanic pointed to a dumpster full of old parts and told me I could go find them. GRRRRR!
I say there was nothing wrong with the struts.
If your strut cartridges are bad, the car will continue to rock more than twice after hitting a bump and there should some oil seeping from the seals at the top of the strut cartidges.
Have youe mechanic PROVE you need the cartridges.
How much is it to change the front struts on a 2004 trailblazer?
Its a pain in the ***. If you dont have the right tools or experience doing it, then dont.
If you do attempt to try it, DO NOT DISASEMBLE THE STRUT ITSELF.
The strut is one unit, it comes out and in all together. If you take the strut apart you will need special tools to put it back together.
Why do I know this, because I took it apart once. Just let the shop do it, you have better things to do with your time.
If you do attempt to try it, DO NOT DISASEMBLE THE STRUT ITSELF.
The strut is one unit, it comes out and in all together. If you take the strut apart you will need special tools to put it back together.
Why do I know this, because I took it apart once. Just let the shop do it, you have better things to do with your time.
ABS Light on 1999 Toyota Avalon?
Hello Everyone. I had my struts replaced on my 1999 Toyota Avalon. When I got it back, the ABS light stayed on and has never turned off. Anyone tell me why changing the struts in a Toyota would cause the ABS light to come on?
ABS Light on 1999 Toyota Avalon?
Because the ABS computer need to know what your wheels are doing, they have wheel speed sensors (wss) at each wheel, you will have hopefully unplugged not cut the wiring for it, its usually located in the hub assembly itself. when the ECU measures in incorrect or open circuit, it disables the ABS system and turn on the warning light to let you know it somethings gone wrong.
You need to check if the strut you changed has the wss plugged in. You may also need to clear the ABS and main ECU's of fault codes to extinguish your warning light. to check its all good usually need to drive it a reasonable speed before a faultcode will register, hope that helps.
ABS Light on 1999 Toyota Avalon?
ywah and if that appears to be all good, trace the wiring back from the hub, its probably been disonnected, or said mechanics have squashed the wire, in which case they will have to replace the wss, easily done!
take it back to who worked on it and tell them whats going on
Possibly he knocked or unpluged the wire to the wheel sensors when he put the struts on and forgot to plug one of the sensors back in, take it back to them and explain the situation.software finger nails blue
ABS Light on 1999 Toyota Avalon?
Because the ABS computer need to know what your wheels are doing, they have wheel speed sensors (wss) at each wheel, you will have hopefully unplugged not cut the wiring for it, its usually located in the hub assembly itself. when the ECU measures in incorrect or open circuit, it disables the ABS system and turn on the warning light to let you know it somethings gone wrong.
You need to check if the strut you changed has the wss plugged in. You may also need to clear the ABS and main ECU's of fault codes to extinguish your warning light. to check its all good usually need to drive it a reasonable speed before a faultcode will register, hope that helps.
ABS Light on 1999 Toyota Avalon?
ywah and if that appears to be all good, trace the wiring back from the hub, its probably been disonnected, or said mechanics have squashed the wire, in which case they will have to replace the wss, easily done!
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take it back to who worked on it and tell them whats going on
Possibly he knocked or unpluged the wire to the wheel sensors when he put the struts on and forgot to plug one of the sensors back in, take it back to them and explain the situation.
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